Like most wine enthusiasts, I am fond of wines with a good story. Of course, they must taste good, too. Yet there is no question a solid backstory enhances the appeal.

In particular, small family wineries serving up great wines have long fed that desire to serve a story at the dinner table along with the evening's wine. In recent years, however, a number of the most successful family wineries — Gary Farrell, Arrowood and Merry Edwards quickly come to mind — have been sold to large wine companies.

Poof. Just like that, the story line blurs, even if the wines remain solid. For many of us, the romance is gone. That said, based upon my observations at the 12th annual Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition in San Diego the last weekend of January, the family winery is alive and well.

Exhibit A would be Jeff Runquist Wines of Plymouth, California. This is a winery located off the beaten path in California's Sierra Foothills. The owner/winemaker is Jeff Runquist, who specializes in small lots of sometimes-esoteric wines (his Tannat was one of the highlights of the weekend in San Diego) that have been rocking the wine world.

Runquist entered 32 wines in the Winermaker Challenge and medaled with all but three. His winery was named winery of the year off that strong performance, but what's interesting is that Runquist has done this before, and recently, too. Two years ago, his winery was winery of the year at the San Francisco International Wine Competition, and last year it captured the same honor at the 2019 Critics Challenge (where the judges are prominent wine journalists) in San Diego.

Before he embarked on his own family wine adventure in 1995, Runquist was winemaker at another top-notch family winery, the iconic J. Lohr. Owner Jerry Lohr was a pioneer in California's Central Coast. His winery also made its mark at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge, bagging a couple of platinum awards along with two gold and four silver.

Another Central Coast family winery, Eberle, had a strong presence at the Winemaker Challenge, taking seven medals for the 10 wines entered. Eberle hit a home run with its 2018 Mill Road vineyard viognier from Paso Robles, which took best of show white wine. Proprietor Gary Eberle opened his eponymous winery along Highway 46 in Paso Robles in 1979. At the time, Paso Robles didn't have its own AVA (American Viticultural Area) designation, but Eberle led the charge, and an Eberle cabernet sauvignon became the first wine in the region to show the Paso Robles AVA on its label.

The cherry on top of the family winery train at the Winemaker Challenge was provided by Mendocino County's Navarro Vineyards. The small, family-owned, family-run winery in the Anderson Valley submitted two dessert wines — the 2018 riesling Late Harvest Cluster Select and the 2018 gewurztraminer Late Harvest Cluster Select — that tied for best of show dessert wine.

I can attest to the fact that both wines were stunning. But Navarro is hardly a one-trick pony. Overall, the small Mendocino County winery took 13 medals including the aforementioned platinum awards and three gold.

And, finally, wine of the year went to the 2016 Ledson Alexander Valley Reserve cabernet sauvignon. Yes, another family winery. I can only conclude the successful family winery is alive and well. Long live the families!

For complete results of the Winemaker Challenge including best-of-class awards, visit WinemakerChallenge.com.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Cameron Hughes 2017 Merlot, Lot 713, Carneros ($18) — Cameron Hughes specializes in buying up odd lots from top-notch wineries and selling those wines at a substantial discount under the Cameron Hughes flag. This brilliant Carneros (Napa Valley) merlot is typical. Showing exceptional richness and depth, it is beautifully structured and layered with aromas of plum, black cherry, blueberry and a touch of oak vanillin. This spicy merlot represents tremendous value. I can easily imagine it as a $50 offering from a well-known producer, yet it retails for a mere $18. Judges at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge rewarded it with a well-deserved platinum medal. Rating: 96.

Martin Codax 2018 Albarino, Rias Baixas DO, Spain ($15) — Martin Codax is a well-run cooperative in northwestern Spain that routinely proves the sum is often greater than the individual parts. Drawing from an army of small grape growers in the Rias Baixas, this winery consistently delivers an outstanding albarino at a modest price. The 2018 exhibits notes of citrus and yellow stone fruits, firm backbone and scintillating minerality. It was a deserving platinum award-winner at the San Diego challenge. Rating: 94.

Tasting Notes

J Vineyards California Cuvee Brut, California ($25) — J winemaker Nicole Hitchcock is nothing if not consistent. The California cuvee bubbly has scored a platinum award at the annual Winemaker Challenge every year since it was introduced. The current batch of this nonvintage sparkling wine is dazzling for the price, showing notes of lemon and peach with a fine mousse, splendid freshness and excellent length on the palate. And the price is right. Rating: 94.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. Email Robert at whitleyonwine@yahoo.com.

Photo credit: milivanily at Pixabay