By Margot Black
Setubal, a phenomenal beach town just a short jaunt from Lisbon, offers a refreshing escape from the hustle and bustle of Portugal's capital. Our two-night trip was inspired by my stepmom's recent move to this lovely part of the world, and it proved to be an adventure filled with stunning landscapes, historical landmarks and delightful culinary experiences.
Since it is located just 45 minutes south of Lisbon, my husband, son and I jumped at the chance to explore a less-touristy part of the region and experience something new. We booked a professional driver-guide, who drove us to this pretty coastal city that was once an important port and naval base, situated between the Atlantic Ocean and the Troia Peninsula.
Our visit began with a thrilling dolphin tour aboard a beautiful catamaran with Blue Vertigo. For just $44 per adult and $22 for children aged 3 to 12, we enjoyed a three-hour ride that was worth every cent.
The day was stunning, with clear skies and calm seas, making it a perfect setting for spotting dolphins. There's nothing finer than watching these magnificent creatures play in their natural habitat. The tour offered far more value and intimacy than similar tours in the United States and left us with unforgettable memories.
Afterward we explored Setubal's local market, known as Mercado do Livramento. It's heaven for anyone who loves to sample local delicacies, including their glorious queijo de Azeitao, a sour and salty cheese produced in the region.
Dinner at Yoshiki Sushi, in the center of town, was an unexpected delight. My son, a food-curious teenager, was excited about an all-you-can-eat sushi restaurant. It's not the typical cuisine one might choose in Portugal, but the sushi was delicious and the atmosphere lively.
The next day we embarked on a private driving tour with our guide, Sergio, whom we found on Instagram and Facebook. Hiring him was an excellent decision. His knowledge and expertise allowed us to experience the region without the hassle of driving ourselves. For me, it meant pure relaxation, knowing that every decision was in someone else's hands.
Our first stop was the imposing Sao Filipe Fortress, perched high above Setubal and the Troia Peninsula. It was constructed in 1582 to strengthen coastal defenses against invasion from pirates. One of the wonderful things about places like this is the history. We've read books such as the "Ranger's Apprentice" series, so this was fun to experience.
Next we visited the 7th Battery, an old artillery site with panoramic views of the Arrabida Natural Park and the Atlantic Ocean. Despite its need for repair, the site exudes grandeur and offers majestic views. I couldn't help thinking it would make a glorious upscale residence or restaurant.
We continued on to the Rampa da Arrabida, a scenic viewpoint with stunning vistas of the rugged Mediterranean coastline. It was the perfect Instagram moment, and my son had great fun on the ramp, which is angled to make it look as if you're hanging precariously over the edge.
My favorite lunch was at the Restaurante D'u Portinho in Portinho da Arrabida, a tiny beach village that hugs the water. Ironically, this was Sergio's second choice, as his first was closed, but it delivered the perfect vacation moment. I joyfully savored a huge piece of delicious salmon as the fish swam in the sea below us.
After lunch we explored the Sao Simao Arte Tiles Factory, learning about the techniques of traditional Portuguese tiles (azulejos), and although we didn't make it there, Sergio recommended wine-tasting in Azeitao, an excellent addition for those with more time.
We rounded off this whistle-stop tour of my stepmom's neighborhood with dinner at Tapas na Baixa, where I discovered my new favorite dish, Patatas Bravas. These "brave little potatoes" were a fitting end to our culinary adventure, symbolizing the bold and adventurous spirit of our trip.
If your stay is also short, it's a good idea to hire a private driver or go on group tours. The roads can be challenging, and having a knowledgeable guide enhances the experience immensely. Setubal is easily accessible from Lisbon, making it a perfect destination for a day trip or a longer stay, and it will be worth your time to leave the city limits and discover the coastline. It's a place that invites exploration and rewards those who seek its hidden treasures.
WHEN YOU GO
Although we stayed with family, here are three hotels in Setubal that would make for a comfortable stay.
Rio Art Hotel: Located downtown, this is a beautifully restored historic building with 23 rooms. A three-star hotel, it's convenient for families (although there's no elevator, so it's not stroller-friendly), just steps from the waterfront and the town's main square. From $153 a night: www.rioarthotel.pt/en.
Melia Setubal Hotel: This serene four-star hotel is located next to Bonfim Park in the city center. It features an indoor pool, sauna and a health club. There is also a Bistro and Tapas Restaurant and cocktail bar. From $190 a night: www.meliasetubal.com/en.
Palmela Castle Inn: Perfect for a fairytale stay, the four-star Palmela Castle Inn offers modern facilities in a 14th-century castle. Families can enjoy not only the unique experience but also stunning views over Setubal. From $170 a night: www.pousadas.pt/en/hotel/pousada-palmela.
Driver-tourguide Sergio Costa Instagram: www.instagram.com/sergio_pro_driver
Driver/tourguide Sergio Costa Facebook: www.facebook.com/sergioprodriver
Dolphin Tour: www.vertigemazul.com
Yoshiki Sushi: www.facebook.com/yoshiki21
Restaurante D'u Portinho: www.duportinho.eatbu.com/?lang=en
Tapas na Baixa: www.instagram.com/tapasnabaixa/?hl=en-gb
Margot Black is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
The author and her family enjoy the scenic Rampa de Arrabida viewpoint in Setubal, Portugal. Photo courtesy of Margot Black.
View Comments