A number of years ago, while covering the annual Bordeaux en primeurs tastings in France, I decided to decamp for the week at the lovely Cordeillan-Bages, a Relais & Chateaux hotel in Pauillac. The attraction for me was the restaurant, which had one Michelin star at the time.

Over the course of en primeurs week, I had the opportunity to dine at Cordeillan-Bages on a number of occasions and struck up a rapport with the restaurant's young sommelier. One of the unique features of the restaurant was a private room to enjoy an after-dinner drink with a fine Cuban cigar.

On my final evening in Pauillac before returning to Paris for the flight home, Jean-Michel Cazes, owner of Cordeillan-Bages as well as the prominent wine estate Chateau Lynch-Bages, hosted a retirement party in the restaurant for the longtime Lynch-Bages cellar master. Older vintages from the estate flowed throughout the night.

I enjoyed a quiet dinner alone but observed the festivities from afar until I retired to the private room for an after-dinner drink and a cigar. Shortly after I was seated, a waiter brought my cigar, already trimmed and lit. As I perused the after-dinner drinks selection, the sommelier approached me with a glass of dark liquid in her hand.

I believe her name was Ashley, a young woman from New York, but the memory is tricky after all these years. She said: "Robert, Jean-Michel has opened a 1955 Taylor Fladgate vintage Port for the celebration. I thought you might enjoy a glass with your cigar."

At that moment, I thought perhaps I had died and gone to heaven.

I am reminded of this story because 'tis the season. Not that an after-dinner wine isn't appropriate any time of the year. It's just that the holiday season typically inspires such indulgences with greater frequency.

So I offer some thoughts that might speed along such inspiration. First, if I'm not taking my vintage Port with a cigar, I like it with strong cheeses, as opposed to a rich dessert. Tawny Port, on the other hand, I do enjoy with dessert, probably because tawnies tend to be smooth and mellow.

Cognac and brandy suit me when I can sip them in front of a roaring fire on a cold winter night. Perhaps it's the heat a cognac delivers throughout the body that warms the innards. Frapin and Courvoisier VSOP ("very superior old pale") are my go-to cognacs at home, but they are merely the tip of the iceberg. I'm also fond of Spanish brandy. Cardenal Mendoza Solera Gran Reserva is a good place to start. Smoother and more mellow than cognac, Spanish brandy is a well-kept secret that needs to get out.

If you've never indulged in the after-dinner wine experience, it's not too late. After all, 'tis the season.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

B.R. Cohn 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($15) — Remarkably complex for the price point, the B.R. Cohn sauvignon from the 2018 vintage delivers juicy tropical fruit, bright lemon/lime citrus, melon and racy acidity to cleanse and refresh the palate. Rating: 89.

Marques de Caceres Brut Cava, Spain ($12.99) — Clean and refreshing with notes of citrus and a touch of brioche, for the money this is a sure crowd-pleaser over the holiday season. Rating: 87.

Tasting Notes

J. Davies 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District ($120) — Diamond Mountain is one of California's sweet spots for cabernet sauvignon. Situated near the northern tip of the Napa Valley, the warm summer days typically produce full ripeness. The mountain terroir then imparts remarkable structure. The J. Davies 2016 vintage is a prime example, not to mention a wine for the ages. Showing impressive depth and complex aromas of cassis and blackberry, the wine is bold and rich without losing the tension so essential to longevity. Though drinking well now, I would give serious consideration to laying down this vintage for another eight to 10 years for optimum enjoyment. Rating: 98.

Vallado 2017 Vintage Port, Douro DOC, Portugal ($109.99) — From the exceptional 2017 vintage, Vallado produced a bold, ripe, lush Port with beautifully integrated tannins. Showing layered aromas of blackberry, blueberry and cassis, the palate exhibits impressive depth and length, with an alluring, spicy finish. Rating: 94.

Emeritus Vineyards 2016 Pinot Noir, Hallberg Ranch, Russian River Valley ($75) — Big, rich and beautiful, this latest from Emeritus Vineyards showcases the impressive depth and complexity of pinot from the Russian River's better vineyards. With an earthy undertone and complex aromas of raspberry and black cherry, the Hallberg Ranch is layered and long, with a pleasing finish enhanced by notes of baking spices. Rating: 93.

Eighty Four 2017 Gamay Noir, Carneros ($35) — Fans of classic Beaujolais likely won't recognize this Napa Valley version as a kissing cousin, because it's richer and bolder than most Beaujolais. That said, it's a delicious expression of gamay, showing aromas of strawberry and raspberry with a judicious dollop of wood spice. Rating: 90.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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