As director of the Sommelier Challenge, a unique wine competition that brings together a team of accomplished, professional sommeliers to evaluate entries, I consider it my solemn duty to taste as many top wines as I can over the course of the evaluations.
This year's Sommelier Challenge, the eighth, was staged Sept. 17-18 in San Diego, California. Our team of somms included Bob Bath, a master sommelier from Napa Valley; Rory Pugh of the highly acclaimed Jean Georges restaurant in New York City; Jeffrey Bencus of the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas; and renowned somm Jesse Rodriguez, our chief judge, of the Montage Resort in Palmetto Bluff, South Carolina.
There were 14 somms in all who sniffed, swirled and spit the nearly 1,100 entries over two days. Their task was to recognize excellence and rate worthy wines as silver, gold or platinum, the platinum award being the highest. Judges tasted the wines blind and knew neither the producer nor the price.
Among the many things I had to tend to over the course of a competition, I focused my energy on tasting all 66 platinum winners. The complete list of medal winners can be found on the Sommelier Challenge website.
The following 10 platinum wines were among my favorites.
Alexander Valley Vineyards 2014 Cabernet Franc, Estate, Alexander Valley ($28) — This underrated grape variety suffers from the mistaken notion that it makes green and weedy wines. That might be true in the Loire Valley of France, but California cabernet franc generally benefits from the California sunshine and ripens beautifully. This Alexander Valley Vineyards Cab Franc is lush and inviting with pretty red fruits and spice, and exceptional length on the palate. Rating: 95.
Beringer Vineyards 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Private Reserve, Napa Valley ($165) — This vintage of Beringer Private Reserve is a muscular brut of a cabernet that will no doubt be going strong and getting better 25 years from now. With massive layers of rich black fruits and robust tannins, it's big but beautifully balanced, never losing the elegance for which this wine is historically famous. Buy a case, and hide it somewhere for at least another 10 years. Rating: 97.
Bolla 2012 Torr'Alta, Veronese IFT, Italy ($19) — In the category of red wines selling for less than $20, the Bolla Torr'Alta stands tall. Although it utilizes a couple of international grape varieties (merlot and cabernet sauvignon), it relies most heavily on the indigenous corvina and rondinella grapes — the money grapes planted all around Verona, a small city in northern Italy. Notes of black cherry and spice dominate, but it's the fresh acidity that makes the fruit pop. Try this wine with grilled meats or savory, tomato-based dishes. Rating: 96.
Chateau St. Jean 2012 Cinq Cepages, Sonoma County ($80) — One of California's most famous red meritage wines, the Cinq Cepages never disappoints. Winemaker Margo Van Staaveren has had this blend dialed in for years. The 2012 vintage delivers exceptional purity of fruit with layers of ripe cassis and blackberry, a hint of woodsmoke and an array of fall spices. This elegant red is predominantly cabernet sauvignon (84 percent), as well as a bit of merlot, cabernet franc and barely a trace of petite verdot and malbec. It's a sensational vintage for this accomplished winery. Rating: 97.
Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs, Carneros ($22) — Rich and luscious with hints of lemon and brioche, Gloria Ferrer's Blanc de Blancs is, without a doubt, among the greatest values in sparkling wine today. Rating: 94.
J. Lohr 2014 Gesture GSM, Limited Release, Paso Robles ($30) — Heavy on the grenache at 87 percent, Lohr's GSM showcases the intense red-fruit character of this important Rhone grape variety. Plump and juicy with smooth tannins, it's a wine to drink now. Try it with duck confit. Rating: 96.
MacMurray Estate Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir, Winemaker's Block, Russian River Valley ($60) — Perhaps the finest pinot ever from the MacMurray estate, the 2014 Winemaker's Block is a stunning wine that combines richness and depth with exquisite structure and freshness. Showing layers of earthy red-fruit aroma and a hint of wood spice, this vintage is remarkably approachable now but has the firmness to hold its edge for up to 10 years, if properly cellared. Rating: 96.
Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial Champagne, France ($41) — Faced with a growing challenge from boutique "grower" Champagne producers, Moet has clearly upped its game. The latest release of Brut Imperial delivers crunchy apple and citrus fruit notes with a creamy texture and an inviting touch of brioche. It is a superb Champagne. Rating: 94.
Navarro Vineyards 2015 Chardonnay, Anderson Valley ($25) — Navarro's 2015 chardonnay exhibits all the virtues of cool-climate chardonnay, notably an exquisite balance. But this vintage also offers that rare combination of richness and structure, showing notes of lemon oil and spice, and fruit notes of pear and apple. At the price, this one's a steal. Rating: 95.
Trefethen 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate ($60) — In line with its many accolades through the years, Trefethen continues to produce a sensational Cabernet Sauvignon that is modestly priced by Napa Valley standards. Supple and smooth, with layers of red and black fruits and a subtle note of wood spice, the 2013 is a remarkable wine that was recently awarded platinum at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge. Rating: 96.
TreRose 2012 Santa Caterina Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Italy ($35) — When it's good, Vino Nobile is the ultimate red wine for food, particularly roasted and grilled meats. TreRose has delivered this beauty from the 2012 vintage. Dry, almost to the point of being austere, it is still somewhat closed. But underneath the exterior is an inviting savory note of black cherry fruit, a fresh acidity and an exceptional length. It needs food, but it also needs time. Rating: 96.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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