The ability to age is one of the accepted tenets of wine appreciation. That may seem oddly disconnected from reality given that the vast majority of wines are consumed within days, if not hours, of purchase. Yet, it is a truth that yields spectacular results for those with the patience and wisdom to wait.

That truth was driven home to me recently when I rummaged through my wine cellar and selected two very different 2003 vintages for the evening meal. The occasion was a birthday celebration that called for, in my humble opinion, classic red wines with at least 10 years of age. Although both were from the same year, it was literally a tale of two vintages.

The first was the 2003 St. Supery Dollarhide Cabernet Sauvignon. 2003 was a cool year in the Napa Valley of California, and though the Dollarhide vineyard is in one of Napa's warmer pockets, the result was still an elegant wine that had firm tannins in its youth. Some critics who are more attuned to ultra-ripe red wines from Napa weren't very high on the vintage, but I've always found it to be exceptional.

The 2003 Dollarhide had aged beautifully after 13 years. It brimmed with primary notes of blackberry and cassis and was deep purple in color. The tannins were still firm, and the secondary aromas, which come with age, were more soft than loud. I judged it to be good to go for another 10 years at least, but kinder and gentler now, and infinitely more interesting than when it was first bottled.

The second wine was a 2003 Marcarini "La Serra" Barolo, the hottest vintage in memory in northern Italy's Piedmont region. I was touring Sicily in southern Italy when the heat wave struck, and I remember being astonished that the temperature in Milan in July was higher than in Palermo.

That year, the excessive heat ripened the grapes prematurely in many of Europe's wine regions, which made the sugar levels high, resulting in wines with higher alcohol. The ability of wines to age has a good deal to do with the balance between fruit, tannin, acid and alcohol. For much of Europe the grapes were not in balance. I held hope for the Barolo district, however, because Barolos have historically been among the most age-worthy wines and Marcarini is among the top producers.

I held my breath as I poured the wine. I noticed the brown color in the glass. Nothing too unusual there. Red wines lose color with age; they typically begin the browning stage around the rim of the glass. But the color was more advanced than I would have expected from a 13-year-old Barolo.

Nevertheless, the first sip revealed that its extended time in the cellar had worked the usual magic, albeit earlier than I would have liked. The primary fruit aromas of a young Barolo had given way to complex secondary aromas, notably leather, balsamic and truffle notes with just a hint of black cherry in the background.

It was a glorious tasting experience.

While it is true that aging wines can be risky, and that not all wines age well or improve with age, the reward when you stumble across a truly age-worthy wine is great indeed.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Matua 2015 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($13) — This typical Marlborough sauvignon has intense aromas of citrus and tropical fruit, as well as a stony minerality that is inherent in most sauvignons from this cool region at the northern tip of New Zealand's South Island. It's crisp, fresh and refreshing, a perfect complement to shellfish and raw oysters. Rating: 88.

Tasting Notes

Chappellet 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon "Signature," Napa Valley ($60) — The Donn Chappellet "Signature" is one of those rare, expensive wines that qualifies as a value. The 2013 vintage carries a suggested retail price of $60, but this wine is surely as fine as many Napa Valley cabs that top $100. It has always been thus, for Chappellet is one of Napa's most formidable cabernet producers, consistently making cabs that can improve in the cellar for 20 years or more. The 2013 is layered and rich, showing notes of cassis and wood spice and a bright acidity that will carry the wine for decades. Rating: 95.

Byron 2013 Pinot Noir, Nielson Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley ($45) — This earthy beauty from Byron's Nielson Vineyard shows notes of forest floor and cola, dark fruits and spice. There's enough grip on the back end to suggest it will benefit from additional cellaring. Rating: 92.

Chappellet 2014 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($35) — Chappellet's 2014 Chardonnay offers the richness and layered complexity that is typical of the Napa Valley, though there is a welcomed modicum of restraint and judicious use of oak. On the palate, the wine shows aromas of lemon oil and pear and notes of wood spice and vanillin. It is generous of body, but finishes with a fresh fruit lift that will keep you coming back for another sip. Rating: 90.

Kukkula 2012 "Sisu," Paso Robles ($45) — Fans of muscular Paso Robles reds will embrace this meaty, sturdy Rhone-style red blend from Kukkula. The proprietary name, "Sisu," is the Finnish word for perseverance or stamina, and the name absolutely fits the wine. A blend of syrah (52 percent), grenache and mourvedre, it is richly layered and darkly colored, and it has firm tannins and notes of black fruits and spice. Rating: 90.

Presqu'ile Pinot Noir Rose, Santa Maria Valley ($20) — This rose from Presqu'ile is 100 percent pinot noir that was cultivated with rose in mind. The grapes were picked at lower levels of ripeness, which tamps down the alcohol and, at the same time, yields a gentle strawberry and cherry nuance, a mouthwatering acidity and freshness. Rating: 89.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.