A week in wine country, whether in the U.S. or abroad, always leaves me with a notebook full of tiny facts and observations. These can be useful to a wine country visitor, although they may not have enough oomph to become a full-blown column.
I recently spent a week visiting wineries in Napa, California, and Sonoma, California. As usual, I left with a bulging notebook.
Here is one of the many encounters I found interesting:
Sonoma-based WALT Wines specializes in pinot noir and chardonnay and is owned by Kathryn Walt Hall of HALL Wines. WALT's focus is the single-vineyard pinot noir. Pinot aficionados, and really anyone interested in the concept of single-vineyard bottling, are offered a superb educational opportunity at the WALT tasting room. It's located on First Street West just off the Sonoma Plaza.
WALT has teamed with the iconic Sonoma restaurant the girl & the fig (ideally located right across the street) to pair five small bites with five different single-vineyard pinots from the WALT portfolio. It costs $60 per person ($40 for club members) for this tasting; it runs daily from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Reservations are mandatory.
It's a revelation for many to learn firsthand that a wine made from one grape variety planted in one location can taste completely different than another wine of the same variety that was grown in different soils and climatic conditions.
I tasted a bevy of WALT pinots during a brief stop there and will review most of them in the coming weeks. As a group, WALT can hold its own with the best pinot producers in California, such as Merry Edwards, Dutton-Goldfield, Siduri and Patz & Hall. Pairing WALT's pinots with tasty morsels from the girl & the fig only enhances the experience.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
—Vento di Mare 2013 Nerello Mascalese, Terre Siciliane IGT, Italy ($12) — As we head into the warmer months and the summer grilling season, tasty reds that won't shrink into the background behind barbecued meats will be ideal. This red from Sicily is simple but meaty, with notes of juicy black fruits and spice and enough stuffing to handle all those pungent and smoky flavors from the grill. Rating: 85.
Tasting Notes
Duckhorn Vineyards 2012 Merlot, Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley ($95) — If this isn't the finest merlot vineyard in the United States, it's certainly in the top two or three. (I consider the Nickel & Nickel Harris Vineyard and Beringer Bancroft Ranch on Howell Mountain the other contenders for the top rung). The 2012 Three Palms from Duckhorn is a towering giant of a merlot. It's rich and seductive on the palate with aromas of plum, black cherry and blackberry. The oak is beautifully integrated, showing touches of spice and graphite without overwhelming the fruit. With remarkable balance and length, this is a merlot for the next 10 to 20 years. Rating: 97.
Charles Heidsieck 2006 Vintage Rose Champagne, France ($150) — This 2006 vintage rose exhibits remarkable length and persistence through the finish, suggesting that at 10-years-old it is only now hitting its stride. On the nose it shows hints of strawberry and spice, which is mirrored on the palate. Firmly structured, it has an acid backbone that can go on for another decade at least; it has enough flesh and fruit to carry its firm frame into the next decade. It also shows a note of cola, a sign that secondary aromas that have been lurking are about to emerge. It's very complex, fresh and engaging now, and will be for many more years to come. Rating: 95.
Merry Edwards 2013 Pinot Noir, Meredith Estate, Russian River Valley ($60) — Merry's 2013 Meredith is a strapping pinot that needs a bit of time to realize its full potential. Packed with dark fruits, spice and plenty of acid to balance the sweetness of the fruit, this is a very good vintage that needs to be tucked away for a few years. It's another blockbuster pinot from the queen of California pinot noir (as some have called the winery) and it deserves your respect. Rating: 95.
Dutton-Goldfield 2014 Chardonnay, Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley ($38) — Dutton-Goldfield's 2014 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay is what every chardonnay producer in the New World should aspire to. It is rich and layered without being sweet or heavy; it shows mouthwatering juicy acidity and has aromas of lemon creme and ripe pear with hints of baking spice. From beginning to end, this is a stunning and delicious expression of a California cool-climate chardonnay at its finest. Rating: 94.
Dutton-Goldfield 2014 Pinot Noir, Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley ($38) — This is among the least expensive of the Dutton-Goldfield pinots, making it a steal in context. Fresh and floral on the palate, this vintage of Dutton Ranch offers juicy red fruits, hints of spice and exquisite balance in a somewhat delicate package. The finish shows a bit of grip that will smooth out as the wine ages another year or so. Rating: 91.
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
Photo credit: Sheila Sund
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