By Victor Block

The terrain in places is as violent in appearance as the bloody battles that raged there for centuries — and as gentle as a morning mist rising above the moors. Craggy rock-strewn mountains stretch toward the sky. Towering cliffs plunge to the sea below. The still waters of lochs reflect images of castles and fortresses, standing like silent sentries on their shores.

Mention Scotland, and this is the picture that people are likely to conjure up. Yet relatively few travelers head for the Highlands, the remote upper half of the country, to discover the "real" Scotland.

Although Scotland is only about two-thirds the size of Pennsylvania, its Highlands comprise one of the last wilderness areas of Europe. The region is sparsely populated. Sheep and cattle occupy much of the fertile land. Tiny towns dot the landscape.

This setting has not always been so tranquil. The history of Scotland

Is replete with battles against a parade of invaders and tyrants - and fighting among themselves.

The first record of Scottish history dates back to the Romans, who arrived in A.D. 82. They were followed by influxes of Celtic Picts, Anglo-Saxons, Britons and Celtic Scots, who came from Ireland during the third and fourth centuries.

The Treaty of Union in 1707 united the parliaments of Scotland and

England, but nationalistic loyalties remained alive among the fiercely proud Highlanders. In an effort to crush their rebellious ways, England banned traditional Highland dress and the bearing of arms in 1747.

In 1780, a sorrowful page of Scotland's history was turned. For the following 80 years, the Highland Clearances led to the eviction of thousands of tenant farmers and herders, who were forced from their land and replaced by sheep, which provided greater income. Following this forced emigration and the spread of Ireland's potato famine into Scotland, the rural Highlands were nearly deserted.

This history of defending their homeland and honor against a parade of intruders instilled the Highlanders with an intense pride that continues to be displayed in a variety of ways.

The system of clans (Gaelic for "family" or "offspring") had its roots In the sixth century. As various regions came under control of chieftains, members of each clan adopted the name of their leader. While the clan system ended in the mid-19th century, pride in the common name has lingered. Today it is expressed primarily through spirited competition at the Highland Games and in traditional dress.

Highland clan members as long ago as the 13th century were distinguished by the brightly colored plaid material they used for clothing. It consisted of yards of tartan that the wearer spread out on the ground, folded into pleats and wrapped around his body. From that evolved the kilt, the skirtlike attire that is familiar today. It still is the mode of dress preferred by many Scotsmen for ceremonial and formal occasions. The complete outfit is an elaborate, lavishly decorated affair that includes traditional adornments. For example, the handbaglike spurn, which is worn around the waist, still is commonly made of leather or animal fur. A small dagger called a skean is tucked into the top of high stockings. According to legend, warring clan chiefs, meeting

to work out their differences, hid small knives there in case the gathering grew unfriendly.

Since the clans played a starring role in the history of Scotland, it's not surprising that their stories often are closely associated with the turreted castles scattered about the landscape. Some survive as stately homes, while others are ruined fortresses that provide only hints of their glorious past.

Visitors to Eilean Donan learn why it's one of the most photographed castles in Scotland. The rebuilt 13th-century fortress is perched on a rocky promontory at the meeting point of three lochs. The castle served as home base for the MacKenzie and MacRae clans. The walls of the banquet hall still are adorned by numerous coats of arms, and a painting in the billeting room depicts MacRaes dressed in plaids and dancing on the roof of Eilean Donan the night before a major battle.

Cawdor Castle, built in the late 14th century, is what many people picture when they think of a fortress. According to legend, its soaring central tower, walled garden and drawbridge entrance provided the setting for Shakespeare's "Macbeth."

A particularly bloody history unfolded at Urquhart Castle, another

14th-century structure that was one of the largest fortresses in Scotland. Its extensive ruins occupy a rugged ledge that juts into the deep waters of Loch Ness. The castle played an important role during the Scots' struggle for Independence from England in the 14th century.

This edifice would be interesting if only for its location overlooking the best-known loch in Scotland. Sightings of a monster in the 23-mile-long lake were first reported as far back as A.D. 565. That's when St. Columba, an Irish missionary to Scotland, told of seeing a "water beast."

Subsequent reports, including more recent photographs of questionable authenticity, have spawned an entire Nessie industry, scientific expeditions and an official Loch Ness Exhibition Center. Along with an audiovisual presentation and the ubiquitous gift shop, the complex boasts a life-size Nessie standing in a miniature outdoor lake, which is the closest thing to the real monster that visitors are likely to see.

WHEN YOU GO

For more information, visit www.scotland.org/contact-us

The 13th-century Eilean Donan, which sits at the convergence of three lochs, is one of the most photographed castles in Scotland. Photo courtesy of Scottish Tourist Board.

Men in Scotland still wear their family's traditional plaid kilt for formal and festive occasions. Photo courtesy of Scottish Tourist Board.

Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.