By Victor Block

Women who live in a tiny mountain village sit together sewing lace tablecloths that are famous all over the world for their beauty and fine workmanship. In a city not far away, diners at sidewalk cafes enjoy their fill of grilled pork, baked lamb and other local favorite foods. A white sand beach is the main attraction for people who are more interested in getting a tan than their fill of tasty treats.

These are among scenes that greet travelers to Cyprus, the eastern-most island in Europe and in the Mediterranean Sea. Visitors also find inviting scenery, friendly folks and a collection of archaeological treasures that are reminders of civilizations that have come, gone and left their imprint.

One big attraction is the variety of intriguing appeals on this small island republic. That's welcome news for the traveler interested in seeing and doing a lot without having to cover much ground.

Setting the stage is the fact that for 11,000 years Cyprus served as a crossroads connecting Europe, Asia and Africa. The result is a unique blend of customs, architectural styles and other cultural traits left by the people who passed through. They included visitors from both the Greek and Roman empires, the Crusaders, Venetians and the British, among others.

Archaeological sites that are dotted about the island serve as reminders of these callers. Medieval castles and Byzantine monasteries continue to serve useful purposes. Forest-clad mountains lead to hills that are blanketed by orange groves and vineyards. Also characteristic of Cyprus are remote villages, tiny clusters of stone houses with red tile roofs that have changed little over countless decades.

Coffee shops serve as centers of village life. They are where men congregate to play backgammon, discuss the day's news, and sip coffee or the local wine. Village wine is a Cypriot tradition, one that has won praise for more than 3,000 years. The island's mild, sunny climate and fertile soil produce vintages that were celebrated in the writings of Pliny the Elder in Roman times and were favored by royalty during the Middle Ages.

Some traditional winemakers still use oversized clay pots, much as the ancient Greeks and Romans did. The wine is fermented, aged and stored in the large terra-cotta containers, and vintners who cling to that practice insist that it improves the flavor of the beverage.

Today the cultivation of vineyards and making of wine remain the major occupation of many inhabitants of the Krassohoria wine villages, a group of towns that cover the southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains. Lovely wine enclaves also are grouped around Limassol, the second-largest city on Cyprus and the center of its commercial wine industry.

What could capture the spirit of Cyprus more than enjoying a bottle of wine and a meal at one of the thousands of tavernas that tempt passersby with the aromas of the kitchen and sounds of good times? Among favorite menu choices, often listed on a blackboard outside restaurants, are lamb, wild game, fresh vegetables and halloumi, a thick, salty cheese that is grilled to a crusty texture.

A good way to sample the island cuisine is the popular meze ("mixture"), small servings of a variety of the items that are available that day in the taverna. While portions are small, as many as two dozen dishes may be included, and no one leaves hungry.

The feast might begin with a cucumber and yogurt dip and small fried meatballs, then move to spicy grilled pork patties and lamb baked in a brick oven. Many a meal ends with bourekia, a lightly fried pastry filled with cinnamon and other ingredients.

When visitors have had their fill of the local cuisine, they may turn their attention to the more lasting attractions that are scattered about the island. Representing so many periods of the past, the Cypriots have transformed the landscape into an open-air history museum.

Some of the earliest prehistoric remnants are found in Choirokoitia, the site of a Neolithic settlement dating back to the seventh millennium B.C. Among artifacts that have been unearthed are tools, graves and beehive-shaped stone houses.

The best-known mythical figure associated with Cyprus is Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty. The Temple of Aphrodite at Kouklia village was an important place of worship, and festivals were held there until the fourth century. The legendary deity was believed to have been born at a site near Paphos, arising from the sea on a shell.

Paphos also is important for other reasons. Perched on the southwestern tip of Cyprus, it has a bustling little harbor, a museum containing jewelry and other displays from as early as the 15th century B.C. and a Byzantine museum with a notable collection of icons.

Another major attraction is an extraordinary group of mosaics that adorn the floors of noblemen's villas that were built in the third century. These tile scenes, which depict various tales of Greek mythology, retain their grace and much of their brilliance even after lying buried for 18 centuries.

An even more impressive archaeological gem is at Kourion, where ruins dating from Hellenistic and Roman times spill across a high rocky ledge. A long oval wall remains from what once was an imposing stadium. Villas are adorned with fifth-century B.C. floor mosaics that spell out their original names, including the "House With Wells" and "House of Gladiators."

Most spectacular is the magnificent Greco-Roman theater that was built in the second century B.C. and enlarged 400 years later. Located near the edge of a cliff overlooking the sea, the open-air structure provides a spectacular setting for productions of classical Greek dramas, modern plays and musical concerts.

Enjoying an artistic presentation in such a magnificent setting is reason enough to consider Cyprus as a vacation destination. And that's in addition to its wealth of archaeological riches, traditional village life and other attractions.

WHEN YOU GO

For more information, go to www.visitcyprus.com.

Some winemakers on the island of Cyprus still make their product in traditional clay pots. Photo courtesy of Victor Block.

.Mosaics that once adorned the floors of noblemen's villas remain as beautiful as they were 18 centuries ago. Photo courtesy of Victor Block.

A good way to sample the cuisine of Cyprus is with "meze," small servings of several different dishes. Photo courtesy of Victor Block.

Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.