Gourmet Physician Hits Her Healthful Target

By Lisa Messinger

December 19, 2013 6 min read

"The Gourmet Prescription for Low-Carb Cooking," by Deborah Friedson Chud, (Bay Books. $27.95).

You have entered the zone. Not "The Zone," the wildly best-selling diet book by Barry Sears that creates a precise ratio between protein, carbohydrates and fat, but a gourmet zone that will have you eating better than you ever dreamed, while following Sears' tenets. Or the high-protein recommendations of fellow perennial bestseller the late Robert Atkins. Or the teams who wrote the blockbusters "Sugar Busters" and "Protein Power."

Chud is a Boston physician who has worked with Sears and heartily endorses his plan. More important in terms of this project, however, is that she is also a lifelong gourmet cook who sensed a hunger for a cookbook that would supplement today's widespread low-carbohydrate diets. The nutrient calculations and bare bones recipes in these other books can be dry, to say the least.

Being opposite of this is what makes Chud's cookbook my favorite ever for getting a head start on the resolutions of a healthful New Year.

"Instinctively, I drew away from mathematically precise food formulas that made me feel hemmed in and restless," Chud writes of her own experience adhering to "The Zone." "Instead, I sought adventures in cooking and eating that would serve the goal."

Begin your adventure by simply looking at the many mouthwatering photographs by Tim Turner of such stunners as Warm Salad of Grilled Scallops and Wilted Frisee with Smoky Ranch Dressing (a rich, onion-smoked affair concocted from nonfat buttermilk and low-fat mayonnaise), Smoked Turkey Tenderloins with Raspberry-Chipotle Sauce or Baked Fruit with Warm Blueberry Sauce.

When you move on to reading, you'll be amazed at what you'll learn (and the bounty of information is appropriate for most people following a healthful eating plan, not just those on plans like "The Zone," because, for the most part, you'll be cutting down on fat, salt and sugar, while vastly increasing intake of fruits and vegetables).

The "virtual" mascarpone in Fresh Figs with Virtual Mascarpone, for example, is a blessing.

"Mascarpone is an Italian cream cheese made from cow's milk that rivals whipped cream as an accompaniment to fruits and berries," writes Chud. "Unfortunately, 2 tablespoons contain 13 grams of fat, 10 of which are saturated. A little fromage blanc (or nonfat ricotta) can lessen mascarpone's nutritional disadvantages without obliterating its sweet, rich taste. This dessert takes only five minutes to prepare."

The "smoked allium paste" used in her smoky ranch dressing, spiced ancho sauce, flavored mayonnaise and as an accompaniment to beef and lamb is a low-fat marvel. It's made from onions, shallots, garlic and olive oil.

Chances are with Chud's suggestions you won't miss the bread products that most of these plans restrict.

Rather than tortillas, the fajitas wrapping in her Smoked Shrimp Fajitas are thick leaves of Boston lettuce.

Highly flavorful, smoked Portobello mushrooms (a number of Chud's recipes call for a stove-top smoker) become the "bun" for a red onion-topped sirloin burger.

GRAPEFRUIT SHRIMP

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons grated grapefruit zest

1 teaspoon fructose (or other natural granulated sugar substitute)

1/2 teaspoon (preferably coarse kosher) salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

1 1/4 pounds extra-large shrimp, peeled and deveined

Yields 4 servings.

In large bowl, combine oil, zest, fructose, salt and pepper. Whisk to blend. Add shrimp and toss to coat evenly. Prepare hot fire in grill. Grill shrimp for 2 minutes per side, or until bright pink and opaque. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

FRESH FIGS WITH VIRTUAL MASCARPONE

2 tablespoons mascarpone

2 tablespoons fromage blanc or nonfat ricotta

4 fresh, ripe figs, quartered

1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest

Yields 4 servings.

Combine mascarpone and fromage blanc or nonfat ricotta in small bowl and blend well. Divide figs among four plates and place dollop of cheese on each serving. Sprinkle with pinch of orange zest; serve immediately.

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "After-Work Gourmet" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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