The Thanksgiving feast is as American as apple pie, and many traditionalists believe the wines should be, too.
That proposition might have presented a challenge at one time, but over the past few decades, the bounty of the American wine industry has erased any doubts that there is a delicious domestic wine for just about any occasion.
The Thanksgiving table, with its array of sweet and savory flavors and aromas, gives every host a myriad of options. Throw in the undeniable truth that a roasted turkey is equally comfortable with either a red or white wine, and those possibilities only multiply.
It has been my position through the years to serve a bit of everything. When I set the dining room table for the occasion, there is always one glass for sparkling wine, one for white wine or rose, another for red and a special one for dessert wine. Covering all the bases leaves little to chance!
Tasked with choosing the wines for this year's big family confab, I have given this some serious thought. My suggestions are personal favorites drawn from tasting experiences over the past year. Some of the wines may be difficult to source or no longer available in some parts of the country, but that's beside the point. The theme is what's important.
To kick things off, I would serve a superb California sparkling wine as guests arrive. The Domaine Carneros by Taittinger La Reve Blanc de Blancs ($90) is a stunning example of domestic bubbly that can compete with the finest French Champagne. If that's too much of a budget buster, Gloria Ferrer's Royal Cuvee Brut ($35) is another equally impressive domestic bubbly that has the chops to shine against French Champagne. The J Cuvee 20 Brut ($30) isn't too shabby, either.
Ponzi, a Willamette Valley, Oregon, winery best known for its distinctive pinot noir, gets my nod for Thanksgiving rose. It retails for about $20 and is crisp, flavorful and delicious as an aperitif. It also has the backbone to serve with the Thanksgiving bird. My backups, both from Paso Robles, would be the J. Lohr "Gesture" Grenache Rose ($18) or the Eberle Steinbeck Vineyard Syrah Rose ($16). Eberle's is that rare domestic rose that is vineyard-designated.
For my Thanksgiving white, I'm going very traditional with the Rodney Strong Chalk Hill Chardonnay ($22), which is among California's finest chards in this price range. It offers abundant richness without sacrificing all-important structure. Winemaker Rick Sayre is one of the best in the business at creating balance in chardonnay.
My backups are both Alsatian-style whites from Mendocino County: Handley Cellars Gewurztraminer Anderson Valley ($20) and Navarro Vineyards Pinot Blanc Mendocino ($15). Both deliver exceptional flavor along with mouthwatering acidity, and they are tailor-made for the assortment of sweet and savory spices found on the Thanksgiving table.
Even with excellent whites, most guests will gravitate toward the reds and likely consume more of them because the sometimes-earthy nature of red wine, particularly certain pinot noir, complement the savory aspects of the Thanksgiving meal. At the same time, the bright fruit character of pinot noir speaks to the hints of sweetness found in many Thanksgiving dishes.
The Gary Farrell pinots are relatively easy to find and will satisfy even the most discerning diners. Most recently, I recommended the Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Pinot Noir ($45), which is one of the best I have tasted this year priced below $50 a bottle. But a couple of value pinots stick out in my mind: Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Pinot Noir ($27) and Ron Rubin Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($25). Both deliver exceptional bang for the buck.
If I had to choose an alternative to pinot noir, I would reach for the Alexander Valley Vineyards Cabernet Franc ($28) or the Barboursville Cabernet Franc Reserve ($25), the latter consistently one of Virginia's finest red wines.
Finally, you arrive at the dessert course. One of the most unique domestic dessert wines is Barboursville's Paxxito, Virginia ($32), which is made using the passito process famous in Italy. The moscato ottonel and vidal grapes are dried prior to fermentation, which concentrates aroma as the grapes dehydrate.
This is an intensely sweet white wine, so if your preference is something only slightly sweet that will complement pumpkin pie, Eberle Muscat Canelli ($20) is just the ticket.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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