Choosing appealing and delicious wines for the holidays is the easy part. Getting the most out of them requires attention to a few small but important details.

First and foremost, there is the temperature factor. Do not keep your wines prior to the holiday feast in the kitchen, or on the counter next to an oven that's roasting a 20-pound turkey. Red wine served too warm will taste flat, and in some cases tannic or acidic. And if you live in a cold climate and have the heat cranked up, it wouldn't hurt to invest in a plastic party bucket so you can keep both your red and white wines cool while resting on a bed of ice.

In fact, it is often recommended that Beaujolais, the wine of choice for many at the holiday table, be served slightly chilled. This is especially true of less expensive Beaujolais-Villages.

The second most important detail, in my humble opinion, is the decanter. With an emphasis on fruit-driven wines during holiday feasting, the decanter is an invaluable tool in the quest to enhance the wine component, and thus the overall experience, as you entertain.

Decanting your wines — both red and white — provides aeration, which brightens the fruit and smoothes the rough edges. It is not necessary to possess fine crystal to decant. Most department stores sell inexpensive glass decanters that work every bit as well as crystal, albeit without the elegance.

If you are so proud of a special bottle or bottles of wine being presented at the feast, do what many sommeliers do: Decant the wine, rinse the bottle, and then funnel the decanted wine back into the original bottle. That way you won't lose the "wow" factor of an impressive wine selection.

Finally, there is the matter of the stemware used for your wine service. I am fond of the quaint practice of "seasoning" the glasses before the wine is served. This is mostly for show, a stylistic twist that calls attention to the festiveness of the occasion. But if you haven't had time to polish your stemware and it's been sitting in the cabinet for any length of time, seasoning the glasses will help remove any off aromas that have accumulated in the cabinet.

To season the glasses around your dining table, simply pour a small amount of wine in a single glass and swirl it about, coating the inside of the glass with the wine about to be served. Then pour the wine from the first glass into a second glass and repeat the process. Continue until you have seasoned every glass.

For the greatest impact, this gesture of showmanship should be done with everyone seated at the table, each person seasoning his or her own glass before passing the wine to the next person's glass. This is a festive custom and certain to kick off any holiday occasion with a burst of flair.

Tasting Notes

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Roar 2011 Pinot Noir, Sierra Mar Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands ($52) — Roar's many vineyard-specific pinots tend to emphasize rich, ripe fruit flavors, and the 2011 from Sierra Mar Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands is no exception. That said, the tension between flavor and structure is well balanced, resulting in a New World-style pinot that is scintillating if not especially elegant. The nose offers an earthy, forest-floor aroma profile and on the palate the wine exhibits notes of black raspberry and boysenberry. If you're looking to serve a crown-pleasing pinot with impact, this one's a good bet. Rating: 94.

B.R. Cohn 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Olive Hill Vineyard, Sonoma Valley ($55) — Bruce Cohn's Olive Hill Vineyard has long been one of the sweet spots for Sonoma County cabernet. Situated on east-facing slopes along Highway 12 between Sonoma and Santa Rosa, this vineyard is located in a unique warm spot in an otherwise cool area for cab. The result is a lush, rich cabernet that is easily one of the best in Sonoma when it's good. The only reason this wine isn't more sought-after and revered is because the winemaking over the years has been inconsistent due to turnover. This vintage happens to be a year when the winemaking team at B.R. Cohn pretty much nailed it. Rating: 93.

Stonestreet 2011 Chardonnay, Bear Point Vineyard, Alexander Valley ($55) — This is one of the more complex chardonnays you are likely to find in the Alexander Valley, which is typically suited for grapes like cabernet sauvignon that thrive in a warm climate. Chardonnay works there, too, especially when the vines are planted at a bit of elevation. The Bear Point vineyard block is situated at about 1000 feet above sea level and the fruit from this source speaks to the veracity of the vineyard site. This vintage exhibits a floral nose with hints of lemon oil and baking spice. On the palate the wine is expansive, opulent and layered without losing its elegance. I wouldn't want to age this wine past the 5-to-7-year mark, but for drinking now and over the next few years it's a stunningly delicious wine for any occasion that calls for chardonnay. Rating: 92.

Truchard 2011 Roussanne, Carneros ($25) — Truchard has a proven track record with this intriguing white grape variety from France's Rhone Valley. The 2012 is another in the string of successes. Fresh and clean on the palate, it exhibits juicy tropical fruit aromas and a zesty, lingering finish. If you have a hankering for something different this holiday season, the Truchard Roussanne is a beautiful alternative to your garden variety sauvignon blancs and chardonnays. Rating: 91.

Flora Springs 2011 Merlot, Napa Valley ($25) — This vintage of Merlot from Flora Springs is fresh, juicy and spicy, with supple tannins that make it perfect for near-term consumption. On the nose, this wine exhibits notes of cedar, with plum and currant fruit nuances. The finish shows oak vanillin and baking spices. At the price, an excellent choice for the holiday feasting table. Rating: 89.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.