On a brief vacation in the mountains of Arizona, I took the opportunity to taste a flight of three Arizona wines from the Verde Valley in and around Sedona. The restaurant presented a rose, a chardonnay and a red the server described as a grenache blend.

The first taste confirmed my suspicion that this could be an up-and-coming area for wine, although I was puzzled by the grenache blend's somewhat coarse tannin. This is a grape variety that typically delivers bright red-fruit character with relatively smooth tannins. I don't often encounter a grenache with rough edges.

But as it sat there in the cool night air, something remarkable happened. The tannins smoothed out, allowing the fruit to shine. I turned to my wife, who had ordered a well-regarded cabernet sauvignon from Sonoma County. I asked her if she liked her cab. She offered a qualified yes. It had been served warm, but it improved with exposure to air and the coolness of the evening.

The white wine and rose before me had arrived at the table well chilled. The two reds had been served at room temperature, which, all of us learned long ago, is the proper way to serve a red wine. The problem with that advice is sometimes, particularly in certain parts of the world, room temperature is 80 degrees F.

That's far too warm for a red wine to be enjoyed. The easy fix for a restaurant is to lay the red wines to be served that evening on a bed of ice to bring down the temperature. If I had ordered by the bottle instead of by the glass, I would have requested an ice bucket. Five to 10 minutes on ice and you have a different red wine.

Serve a red too warm and you will bring out the wine's harshest elements of alcohol and tannin. Lower the temperature into the high 60s and you will bring it all back into balance. Conversely, if you store your wines in a temperature-controlled cellar, as I do, the wines come out of the cellar at 56 or 57 degrees. That's too cold for most reds.

There's an easy fix for that, too. Cup both hands around the outside of the glass and warm the wine to your taste!

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Terra Alpina 2018 Pinot Bianco, Dolomiti, Italy ($16) — This delicate white from northern Italy is fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees, lending superb aromatics and a fine texture on the palate. Showing notes of ripe apple and stone fruits, it has fine structure and exquisite balance. Serve it with tapas, grilled seafood or simply as a crisp, refreshing aperitif. Rating: 90.

Regaleali 2016 Nero d'Avola, Sicilia, Italy ($15) — Under the umbrella of Tasca d'Almerita, the Regaleali label is one of the most respected in Sicily. Its front-line entry-level Nero d'Avola is consistent vintage after vintage, and the 2016 is no exception. Beautifully balanced, this vintage offers a complex array of red and black fruits, ultra-smooth tannins and a hint of wood spice. And it's easy on the wallet. Rating: 88.

Tasting Notes

Vallado 2017 Vinho Tinto, Douro, Portugal ($22.99) — The quality-to-price ratio of dry red wines from Portugal's Douro region is off the charts. It has been common in recent years to steer the typical varieties used in the production of Port wine toward the production of dry table wines. The push has been a resounding success; wines such as this beautiful vinho tinto from Vallado demonstrate that blends of touriga nacional, touriga franca and tinta roriz can deliver dry wines of uncommon character, with generous richness, complex aromas of red and black fruits, and a shot of spice. Rating: 93.

Anne Amie 2016 Pinot Noir, Estate, Yamhill-Carlton ($45) — One of the great characteristics of Oregon pinot noir is depth. The Anne Amie Estate pinot noir from the 2016 vintage exhibits impressive depth and complexity, and aromas of cherry, plum, forest floor and baking spice. This wine comes alive in the glass, meaning it shines with a bit of aeration, so decanting prior to serving is highly recommended. Rating: 91.

Double Canyon 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills ($25) — Not enough is said or written about the rising tide of excellent cabernet sauvignon from Washington, particularly the Horse Heaven Hills. Double Canyon's 2016 vintage cab is an outstanding example of what is possible. This vintage shows impressive weight and depth, with notes of blackberry, plum and wood spice, and uncommonly smooth tannins. It's a steal at this price. Rating: 91.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. Email Robert at whitleyonwine@yahoo.com.

Photo credit: ponce_photography at Pixabay