The Kincade fire started Oct. 23 near Geyserville in northern Sonoma County. Fueled by gusts of wind clocked at as fast as 100 mph, it has since burned more than 60,000 acres and driven tens of thousands of residents from their homes. At this writing, containment doesn't seem to be in sight.

The area affected covers one of the most storied regions in California wine, the Alexander Valley and the charming village of Healdsburg. The fire also threatens the city of Santa Rosa, the cultural hub of Sonoma County, and has now spread east toward the northern tip of the Napa Valley, where Calistoga residents are under evacuation orders.

I have followed the developments closely on social media and been humbled by the courage and grit on display, from the firefighters doing a dangerous job to the wine industry workers finishing the 2019 harvest. By all accounts, the 2019 is a very good vintage, despite the challenges presented by smoke-filled air and the reality that danger could well be just over the next hill.

The region is heavily wooded. The conditions on the ground have been hot and dry, and the high winds can carry a glowing ember for miles. The hellish situation is a glaring contradiction for many who live and work there, and many who've visited and enjoyed the world-class wines, the extraordinary culinary bounty and the sheer physical beauty of wine country.

It was iconic winemaker Nick Goldschmidt (formerly with Simi Winery, now with Goldschmidt Vineyards) who started out one of his Facebooks posts by saying, "Our paradise is being lost." October and harvest season are typically a time of great joy and relief in wine country: joy because the grapes are finally coming in and relief because the months of hard work in the vineyards are finally over.

I've seen estimates that 80% of the harvest was completed before the Kincade fire broke out. And most of southern Sonoma was not affected. That's the bright side. The dark side is the story of anguish and loss. One wine industry professional who was evacuated over the weekend lost her home only two years ago in the Tubbs fire that ravaged Santa Rosa. Unfortunately, hers is not an isolated story.

We know from previous fire disasters that the region will rebound and paradise will return. In the meantime, it's important for oenophiles far and wide to keep the Alexander Valley ship afloat. I, for one, plan to visit my favorite wine shop and buy a bottle or two or three of world-class Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon today.

It's the least I can do for a slice of California wine country that has given me so much pleasure over the past 30 years.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Balletto 2018 Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley ($20) — This is one of the better and more interesting expressions of pinot gris in California, which hasn't quite caught up to Oregon with this grape variety. The Balletto packs a distinct lime citrus zing with complementary notes of stone fruit and melon, all supported by firm acidity. Rating: 92.

Garofoli 2018 'Macrina' Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC, Italy ($15) — The name is a mouthful, but so is the wine. This is an exceptional example of the signature white wine from Italy's Marche region. Clean and crisp with freshness galore, this vintage of Macrina shows notes of apple and pear with impressive length on the finish for this particular grape variety. Rating: 90.

Tasting Notes

Gary Farrell 2016 Chardonnay, Olivet Lane Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($45) — If there were an aristocracy within the realm of California chardonnay, the Olivet Lane Vineyard in the Russian River Valley would certainly be a member in good standing. This vintage under the Gary Farrell label reminds us that California chardonnay can rise to great heights in the right hands. Beautifully balanced with all parts working in harmony, the 2016 Olivet Lane from Gary Farrell strikes the magic balance between richness and structure. A palate-cleansing acidity supports complex aromas of lemon oil, crunchy apple and pear. Rating: 96.

Dry Creek Vineyard 2016 'The Mariner,' Dry Creek Valley ($50) — If looking for consistent value over the past decade, it would be hard to top the string of excellent vintages for The Mariner, Dry Creek Vineyard's proprietary red Bordeaux-style blend. And not to say this wine is cheap, but at $50 it will give similar wines from Napa at double the price a run for their money. This vintage is heavy on cabernet sauvignon (65%) and has support from merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc, in that order. It shows decadently ripe notes of blackberry, blueberry and cassis, a hint of graphite and plenty of wood spice on the finish. The tannins are ample but beautifully integrated. It is delicious now but would benefit from additional cellar time. Rating: 95.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. Email Robert at whitleyonwine@yahoo.com.

Photo credit: shutterbean at Pixabay