When the Dark Horse wines were in the planning stages a few short years ago, inside the brain trust at E. & J. Gallo Winery the concept was commonly called the "20-7 project."

Throughout its history, Gallo has been sensitive to the consumer need for quality value wine. Consider the cost, for example, of putting a modest $20 wine on the dinner table every night. The tab comes to more than $7,000 a year. For many couples raising children and saving for college, the price is simply too high, no matter their level of interest in wine.

The idea behind the 20-7 project was to meet the demand for value with a wine that tasted like a $20 bottle, but cost $7. Despite the very best of intentions, it didn't pencil out. Undaunted, Gallo upped the price rather than abandoning the project altogether.

The result is a new brand that is growing in popularity under senior winemaker Beth Liston, who oversees Gallo's massive production facility in Livingston, California. Most of the grapes for Dark Horse are sourced from the Lodi region in the Sacramento Delta, and the wines are line-priced at about $9 a bottle.

While the price is attractive, it would be meaningless if the wines didn't deliver. On that score, recent critical acclaim tells Liston she's on to something. At the San Diego International Wine Challenge earlier this year, for example, seven Dark Horse wines medaled, including a 90-point gold medal for the 2015 Dark Horse Sauvignon Blanc. Even its pinot noir took an 88-point silver medal, something of a surprise because the region is generally thought to be too warm for top-notch pinot.

"Pinot noir at this price point is a challenge," Liston told me recently. "We're always striving to get those hints of lavender and violets and cherries."

The Dark Horse project might not have been possible at one time, but advances in viticulture and technical know-how at the winery have broadened the opportunities to make good wine outside of the more established coastal wine regions.

"The Lodi growers are doing great work with lower yields," said Liston, "and you do have some cool nights because of the Delta."

Her most unusual wine is the Big Red Blend, which changes every year. Drawing upon Gallo's connections in Spain, Italy and South America, it can include everything from cabernet sauvignon and merlot to tempranillo, sangiovese and malbec. The most recent Big Red Blend collected an 87-point silver medal at the San Diego competition.

I tasted the lineup recently and was most impressed with the merlot and chardonnay — grapes thought to be more suitable for a cooler climate like pinot noir. The Big Red Blend also showed very well.

The name Dark Horse was chosen, as it was explained to me, because the quality of the bottle "sneaks up" on you. It's so true.

Best Value

Donnafugata 2015 Grillo "SurSur," Sicilia DOC, Italy ($20) — This is pure sunshine in a bottle. Donnafugata's SurSur grillo — an indigenous white grape grown throughout Sicily — is straightforward and simple on the one hand and positively brilliant on the other, showing bright fruit notes that are forward and juicy with tremendous persistence through the finish. Rating: 93.

Robert Oatley 2014 "GSM," McLaren Vale, Australia ($20) — Robert Oatley's 2014 GSM is a meaty red that shows aromas of both red and blue fruits and hints of woodsmoke. On the palate the wine is big and bold with good density. The tannins are nicely integrated, making for easy near-term consumption. Rating: 90.

Donnafugata 2015 Nero d'Avola "Sherazade", Sicilia DOC, Italy ($20) — This plump, juicy nero d'avola comes from one of Sicily's most consistent producers, Donnafugata. It shows soft fruit notes of black cherry and plum, as well as supple tannins and a velvety mouthfeel. It finishes on a spicy note. Rating: 89.

Tenuta Sassoregale 2013 Sangiovese, Maremma Toscana DOC, Italy ($16) — The Maremma has been a growing force within Tuscany for quite some time, and wines like this are the reason. With excellent weight and depth, firm acids and good intensity of black cherry aroma, this is a sensational food wine with an attractive price. Rating: 89.

Tasting Notes

Patz & Hall 2014 Pinot Noir, Hyde Vineyard, Carneros ($75) — Patz & Hall's 2014 Hyde Vineyard pinot exhibits impressive depth with layered aromas of cherry and strawberry, and notes of fall spice and forest floor. It has firm tannins and a long, lingering finish. It's outstanding now, but would benefit from additional age. Anyone with the patience to give it another year or two in the cellar will be rewarded. Rating: 96.

Fattoria Sardi 2015 "Le Cicale" Rosato, Toscana IGT, Italy ($28) — Sardi's 2015 rosato is an unusual rose with floral notes and juicy citrus aromas that are undoubtedly the result of the presence of the white grapes trebbiano and vermentino in the blend, though the predominant grape is sangiovese. The wine has mouthwatering acidity and a color of pale onion skin. This is a rose with body and structure, a match for grilled fish and fowl, as well as a refreshing summer sipper. Rating: 93.

Kettmeir 2014 Pinot Bianco, Alto Adige DOC, Italy ($22) — This cool-climate pinot blanc from the foothills of the Alps combines a firm backbone with lush richness, which is no small feat. Showing notes of melon, yellow citrus and spice, it's an aromatic summer white that certainly has enough character to stand up to rich sauces and smoky aromas from the grill. Rating: 92.

Giesen 2013 Pinot Noir "The Brothers," Marlborough, New Zealand ($30) — This wine shows impressive richness for a pinot from such a cool — or even downright cold — climate. With a nose of dried cherries and wood spice, this is an inviting example of top-notch New Zealand pinot noir. Though Giesen's specialty is sauvignon, it has a deft hand with pinot as well. Rating: 91.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.