Bubbly From Burgundy

By Robert Whitley

August 11, 2015 7 min read

Burgundy, for those who may not know, is an important wine region in France, about two hours south of Paris by train. Its claim to fame is a superb but expensive white wine made from the chardonnay grape and a superb but uber-expensive red wine made from the pinot noir grape.

Many everyday-wine consumers wouldn't have a clue that Burgundy is also the land of Beaujolais and Chablis. But the best-kept secret about Burgundy is the delicious sparkling wine called Cremant de Bourgogne, an official AOC that yields some of France's finest sparkling wines outside of Champagne.

The beauty of Cremant de Bourgogne is that it uses the same primary grapes that are used in Champagne: chardonnay and pinot noir. Other regions in France that produce cremant, such as Alsace and the Loire Valley, don't.

Even more attractive is the price. Most Cremant de Bourgogne sells for less than $30 a bottle, and much of it for less than $20. Cremant de Bourgogne is a beautiful summer aperitif and perfect for al fresco dining. I am pleased to recommend the following five, which I enjoyed recently as I sampled an array of bubblies for summer sipping.

Albert Bichot Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Reserve, France ($23) — This beauty from Albert Bichot exhibits nuances of lemon zest and crunchy green apple, with a note of freshly baked bread. Firmly structured, crisp and refreshing, it's a Cremant de Bourgogne to serve with richly sauced grilled fish or smoked salmon. One of the finest examples of sparkling wine from Burgundy you are likely to find.

Bailly Lapierre Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Rose, France ($19) — This cremant is on the fruity side, showing notes of strawberry, red currant and raspberry, with a lively mousse and refreshing acidity. It's easy drinking as a summer sipper and a wonderful match with savory or spicy appetizers. While delicate and seemingly light, it is packed with flavor and a true crowd-pleaser.

Cave de Lugny Cremant de Bourgogne Brut, France ($16) — Nicely balanced, crisp and refreshing, this Cremant from the Maconnais district of Burgundy shows hints of crunchy green apple and pear. The grapes are chardonnay, pinot noir and gamay. For the price, a great bang for your buck and a beautiful addition to the table on a warm summer evening.

Parigot Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Rose, France ($25) — This lovely salmon-colored brut rose is 100 percent pinot noir. With delicate aromas of strawberry and cassis, fresh acidity and a clean finish, it's a perfect accompaniment to a warm summer day, with food or without. Nicely balanced with a creamy mid-palate, it will please even the most discriminating palates.

Simonnet-Febvre Cremant de Bourgogne Brut, France ($19) — Simonnet-Febvre is the only winery in the Chablis district that produces cremant. This non-vintage brut is 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir. With more power and structure than most cremant, it is an ideal match for rich sauces and game birds. Fruit aromas of peach and apple dominate, with a touch of brioche for complexity. A superb example of Cremant de Bourgogne at its finest.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

J. Lohr 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, "Flume Crossing," Arroyo Seco ($14) — This sauvignon from J. Lohr is another in a long line of crisp, clean, fresh whites from Monterey County's most prolific winery. The Flume Crossing Sauvignon offers notes of bright yellow citrus and white peach, with a slightly oily texture balanced by good acidity. Rating: 88.

Nieto Senetiner 2014 Pinot Noir, Mendoza, Argentina ($13) — You can spend a pile of money on pinot noir or you can spend next to nothing. Next to nothing usually gets you what you pay for, but this $13 Argentine pinot is the exception to the rule. It's rustic and earthy, showing fruit notes of strawberry and black raspberry, with firm acidity and a chewy but pleasant finish. It has personality. For the price, a genuine find. Rating: 85.

Tasting Notes

Wild Ridge 2012 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($45) — This Wild Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot is something of a revelation. Rich and layered, it delivers enticing flavors of strawberry, raspberry and spice with exquisite balance and exceptional length. This is a pinot with serious dimension and the prospect of a long life, though it is drinkable now. It delivers that rare combination of flavor without weight, a characteristic often described as elegance. If it isn't yet on your radar, get a new radar. Rating: 94.

Trione 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($23) — The cool Russian River Valley often imbues sauvignon blanc with a grassy note, which is evident here. But any suggestion of greenness is quickly dispelled by the ever-so-slightly oily texture and fruit aromas of white peach. This is a delicate sauvignon that delivers personality and character without being overdone. Serve it with grilled or poached fish dishes, and don't shy away from sauces or fruit salsas. Rating: 90.

Mansfield-Dunne 2013 Pinot Noir, Peterson Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands ($48) — The Peterson Vineyard Pinot from Mansfield-Dunne, delicate and slightly pale, runs against the conventional wisdom on pinot from the Santa Lucia Highlands. It's anything but a fruit bomb. That said, it has an appealing array of complexities such as cola, forest floor and a black cherry/red raspberry flavor profile. With a bit of green tannin on the finish it has some bite, but for many pinot enthusiasts that is a feature rather than a flaw. Rating: 89.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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