As much as I relish the opportunity to choose a sensational bottle of wine from a truly great wine list, there are times when it's best to turn over the wine decisions to the sommelier.
Such was the case during a recent visit to Northern California, where I dined at La Folie in San Francisco and La Toque in Napa. On both occasions, I opted for a three-course tasting menu that would have been a challenge to pair with any single bottle of wine.
At La Folie, a traditional French restaurant where sommelier Rob Renteria has managed the wine program for six years, I knew I was placing myself in good hands. Renteria came to the rescue with an off-dry pinot gris from the Alsace region of France to complement my starter, a fresh fruit salad with savory overtones.
For the second course, a lobster risotto, he surprised me with a 9-year-old California chardonnay from winemaker Jim Clendenen. For those who believe California chardonnay can't improve with age, I beg to differ.
The final course, a rack of lamb, brought an inspired selection of minervois from France's Languedoc region. This carignan-based red was stunning and a perfect match with the savory meat dish.
I was equally impressed a couple of nights later at La Toque, a one-star Michelin kitchen under the direction of the extraordinary chef, Ken Frank. The brilliance of the somm became clear with the final course of grilled swordfish. Out came a glass of Barolo. Yep, a sturdy red to complement the savory preparation of the swordfish, which included olives and onions.
It wouldn't have been my first choice, but the combination was magic. Sometimes you just have to close your eyes and trust the sommelier.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Rutherford Ranch 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($16) — This Napa sauvignon shows a tinge of tangerine, a note often found in the sauvignons from the Loire Valley of France. With mouthwatering acidity and a strong citrus flavor profile, it's an excellent summer sipper for the warm month ahead. Rating: 87.
Fetzer 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, Anniversary Reserve, California ($12.99) — Fetzer, once the pride of Mendocino County, is celebrating its 50th anniversary. Fetzer wines have been solid down through the decades, and they've always delivered the goods at a modest price. This cab from the 2016 vintage exhibits freshness with inviting red-fruit aromas, moderate tannins and a subtle leafy note. Rating: 86.
Tasting Notes
Shafer 2016 Chardonnay, Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros ($52) — Long one of the Napa Valley's star chardonnays, the Red Shoulder Ranch style combines richness with freshness, which is no easy feat. But that's the influence of the cool San Pablo Bay that looms over the Carneros region. This vintage exhibits a stunning thread of lemon creme with an oily texture and inviting spice notes. Despite the richness, the wine maintains an appealing freshness and savory notes that make it sensational with roast chicken, cream sauces with wild mushrooms and grilled swordfish. Rating: 94.
Thacher 2013 Original Copy, Adelaida District, Paso Robles ($56) — This is nominally a Right Bank Bordeaux-style blend, leaning heavily on the cabernet franc grape (40 percent) with the balance of malbec (39 percent) and cabernet sauvignon (21 percent). It shows what cab franc can be in a warm climate that can promote full ripeness. Richly layered, this full-bodied red shows aromas of blackberry, plum, spice and mocha, with supple tannins that suggest immediate consumption. Warm and generous on the palate, this is a genuine crowd pleaser. Rating: 93.
Balletto 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($20) — The cool Russian River Valley is home turf for many of the finest pinot noirs made in America. Less well-known is the district's affinity for sauvignon blanc. Balletto produces one of the best. This vintage is fresh clean and crisp, with mouthwatering aromas of citrus and melon. The winemaker ferments in neutral oak barrels, which allows for greater lees contact (for texture) without imparting a strong oak impression. A portion of the barrels also goes through malolactic fermentation, which reduces some of the sauvignon's natural tartness. It's a beautiful thing. Rating: 91.
Rodney Strong 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley ($28) — Rodney Strong's Alexander Valley cabernet has long been one of the winery's unsung gems. Though the price has inched upward in recent years, it remains an excellent value. The 2014 vintage exhibits exceptional balance, showing complex aromas of red and black fruits, oak spice and moderate tannins that allow for enjoyable near-term consumption. Rating: 90.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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