The godfather of Paso Robles wine is back.

Gary Eberle, who was ousted as general manager of Eberle Winery in January 2014, is back in charge of the winery he founded in 1979. Eberle bought out several rebellious investors and was restored to the throne last week, along with his wife, Marcy, who had been fired as the winery's public relations director after the investor coup.

Eberle, who was vulnerable to a takeover with only 35 percent of the winery stock, upped his share to 84 percent to reclaim control of his namesake winery.

"It hit me hard when I faced the fact that I lacked majority control over this place," Eberle said in a statement. "Now the future is up to me and my wife Marcy to continue to develop the property and its wine to their utmost potential."

Two things make this story particularly newsworthy. First, it was Eberle's success with cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay initially — and later with syrah — that helped Paso Robles establish its bona fides as an important grape-growing and winemaking region in California. Eberle also led the charge to have Paso recognized as an American viticultural area, giving the region status as an official appellation. When Eberle was replaced as the winery's general partner, it shook the foundation of the Paso Robles wine community, where he is revered.

Equally important, Eberle refused to accept his demotion because he firmly believed that the new direction being sought by the group of investors who took over was wrong for the winery.

"We make 27,000 cases of wine a year," Eberle told me at the time. "That's just about right for this winery. They wanted to take production to 100,000 cases. There was just no way that was going to turn out well."

It was all about the money. The rebellious group thought more production would translate into greater profits. Eberle thought more production would compromise quality and damage the winery's reputation, which had been more than 30 years in the making. His return to the role of general partner is a triumph of integrity over greed. All too often in the wine industry, it turns out the other way.

Tasting Notes

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Cakebread Cellars 2012 cabernet sauvignon, Dancing Bear Ranch, Howell Mountain ($145). For more than 30 years, the Cakebread name has been synonymous with outstanding cabernet sauvignon from the Napa Valley. Founder Jack Cakebread had the vision, which he has passed along to his sons, Dennis and Bruce, who've taken that vision and run with it. So a once-good thing is now even better. The Cakebread's Dancing Bear Ranch, situated on a west-facing slope of Howell Mountain, has emerged under Bruce and Dennis as one of Napa's most impressive sites for cabernet. The 2012 is a monumental wine that should continue to improve over the next 20 years and then some. It shows classic notes of cassis and blackberry, with a note of cedar and oak vanillin. In the land of great cabernet, this is, without a doubt, one of the finest. Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition. Rating: 98.

Moet & Chandon 2006 Grand Vintage brut rose, Champagne, France ($90). Moet's Grand Vintage brut rose is an inspired bubbly, showing a note of cola and strawberry, with a touch of spice and citrus. From the excellent 2006 vintage, serve this superb rose Champagne with roast duck breast or white meats. Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition. Rating: 95.

Acacia 2013 pinot noir, Carneros ($28). Acacia is one of the wineries that helped write the book on pinot noir in California, planting vines in the Carneros district at the southern tip of the Napa Valley more than three decades ago. This historic property hasn't lost its touch, and the 2013 is all the evidence anyone might need. This is an intense, rich, juicy mouthful of pinot that would be competitive with other California pinots at twice the price. Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition. Rating: 95.

Louis Jadot 2011 Pommard, Burgundy, France ($65). Still youthful and tight four years after the vintage, this Pommard from Jadot speaks well for the quality that can be achieved from a village wine in Burgundy these days. Jadot, of course, is one of the top negociants and has a long and successful track record. This vintage shows notes of plum and black cherry, with firm tannins and an attractive note of earth on the finish. Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition. Rating: 93.

Louis M. Martini 2012 cabernet sauvignon, Napa Valley ($34). Top-notch Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon for less than $40 a bottle is rare, but it does exist. The 2012 from Louis Martini offers a glimpse of the magic of Napa Valley cabernet, with a richly textured, powerful wine from this vintage. It shows aromas of blackberry and currant, with finely integrated tannins and a dollop of sweet oak. Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition. Rating: 94.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.