The Grilling Season

By Robert Whitley

May 19, 2020 6 min read

All across America, the Memorial Day celebration serves as a reminder that summer and backyard barbecues are lurking just around the corner. Indeed, the grilling season is upon us.

But burgers and brats don't tell the full story. Adult beverages including wine have an important role, too. Just ask your favorite grillmeister.

Through years of grilling experience, I have learned that a refreshed grillmeister is a better grillmeister. For me, that means tongs in one hand and a glass of prosecco in the other. Absent prosecco, I prefer a crisp, dry rose. In a pinch, a mouthwatering sauvignon blanc or pinot gris will do.

I've compiled a short list of the things I like to barbecue and the wine types I would serve.

Leg of lamb on the grill is easy and delicious. California merlot or cabernet sauvignon are my wines of choice.

Burgers and brats with a spicy Australian shiraz will please even a demanding crowd of wine enthusiasts.

Chicken thighs with an aromatic pinot noir from Oregon or California does the trick every time.

Swordfish elevates a rich, buttery chardonnay. Or maybe it's the other way around.

Fresh wild-caught salmon is so versatile I might sit down with a glass of pinot noir in one hand and a glass of chardonnay in the other.

A juicy prime ribeye steak almost demands that you open that top-notch Bordeaux you've been cellaring for far too long.

And finally, what meat lover can resist barbecued baby back ribs served with a front-line California zinfandel or a fruit bomb from Chateauneuf-du-Pape, or anywhere else in the southern Rhone Valley for that matter!

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Mettler 2019 Albarino, Lodi, California ($20) — The Mettler family has followed the successful path of other Lodi producers who've embraced albarino, the white grape variety from western Spain and Portugal. Mettler's 2019 is smooth and fleshy on the palate; shows excellent richness and balance; and delivers notes of apple, stone fruit and yellow citrus. Rating: 89.

AIA Vecchia 2019 Vermentino, Toscana IGT, Italy ($13.99) — Perfect for springtime sipping as the weather warms, this vintage of Vermentino from Vecchia is crisp and refreshing, showing notes of citrus and spice, excellent balance and a long, persistent finish. Serve with tapas, shellfish or grilled fish. Rating: 88.

Tasting Notes

Cortonesi 2015 'Poggiarelli,' Brunello di Montalcino ($104.99) — This heavyweight Brunello from Cortonesi is only beginning to strut its stuff. Rich and powerful, with impressive palate weight and depth, it shows layered aromas of cherry, leather and earth; a generous hit of wood spice; and firm tannins that will support it through additional cellar time. Rating: 95.

Drusian Prosecco, Valdobbiadene Superiore Cartizze ($27) - The Cartizze cru is probably the most coveted patch of land in Valdobbiadene. The wines from Cartizze are the epitome of elegance and finesse in the prosecco world, and this nonvintage Drusian is a beautiful example. The mousse is fine and persistent, gentle on the palate but with exceptional length. Aromas of pear and citrus are refined, subtle and beautifully intertwined, a beautiful example of a Cartizze cru prosecco at its absolute finest. Rating: 94.

Dutton Goldfield 2017 Pinot Noir, 'Deviate,' Sonoma Coast ($72) — Winemaker Dan Goldfield strikes again with this beauty from the cool Sonoma Coast. Sourced from the Jentoft and Putnam vineyards, the 2017 Deviate is a densely colored pinot that shows luscious aromas of cherry and raspberry, excellent palate length and a spicy finish. Rating: 93.

La Crema 2017 Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands ($45) — Twenty years ago, world-class pinot noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands was a mere pipe dream. Today, this cool region in the midst of Monterey County stands as one of the finest sources in California — along with the Russian River Valley and the Anderson Valley — for top-notch pinot. The 2017 La Crema offers a richly layered palate, with aromas of cherry and strawberry complemented nicely by a touch of wood spice. Rating: 91.

Cortonesi 2018 'La Mannella,' Rosso di Montalcino, Italy ($29.99) — Beautifully structured with bright cherry fruit on the front of the palate, and notes of earthiness and wood spice on the finish, this is an excellent example of the genre. Rosso is what you drink while you wait for the more powerful and complex Brunello to age to perfection. Rating: 90.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. Email Robert at whitleyonwine@yahoo.com.

Photo credit: moerschy at Pixabay

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