BORDEAUX, France — The annual En Primeurs event in Bordeaux, which previews the most recent vintage of Bordeaux wine for trade and the press, often proves a chore, as everyone muscles through hundreds of young, tannic wines in an attempt to assess their quality and potential.
It may come as a surprise to some, but tasting barrel samples is work. The astringency of young red wine presents a daunting challenge to even the most experienced wine professional. Because many Bordeaux wines are sold "en primeur" well before their release in a couple of years, the primeurs tastings are of tremendous interest to those who sell Bordeaux wines, as well as those who consume them.
While I have my reservations about a number of wines in the difficult 2017 vintage from the Graves and Pessac-Leognan district, I found the wines of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion, on the Right Bank, encouraging. They were riper, fleshier and less austere than many of the wines from Pessac and Graves.
But nothing I had heard about the difficulties of the vintage prepared me for the wines of the Medoc, on the Left Bank. Chateau Beychevelle, one of the stars of Saint-Julien, was absolutely stunning, showing rich layers of fruit, excellent balance and smooth, supple tannins that suggest Saint-Julien may well be the sweet spot of Bordeaux 2017.
Following are tasting notes on wines from the Medoc, a vast region that includes the great terroirs of Margaux, Pauillac and Saint-Estephe.
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Listrac-Medoc
Chateau Clarke — Good concentration, floral, firm tannins, good balance. 91
Chateau Fonreaud — Medium-bodied, moderate tannins, good structure. 89
Chateau Fourcas — Good concentration, black fruits, moderate tannins. 88
Chateau Fourcas Hosten — Floral, red and black fruits, moderate tannins. 88
Moulis-en-Medoc
Chateau Chasse-Spleen — Good concentration, firm tannins, good potential. 90
Chateau Maucaillou — Reeks of brett. 75
Chateau Poujeaux — Red and black fruits, firm tannins. 88
Chateau La Lagune — Plummy note, moderate concentration and tannins. 89
Chateau Latour Carnet — Good concentration, moderate tannins. 88
Chateau La Tour de By — Good concentration, moderate tannins, floral note. 89
Haut-Medoc
Chateau Belgrave — Floral, good concentration, richness, minerality, complex. 91
Chateau Cantemerle — Tart cherry fruit, moderate tannins. 89
Chateau Citran — wood spice note, good concentration, length. 90
Chateau Coufran — Good concentration, red and black fruits, moderate tannins. 89
Margaux
Chateau Brane-Cantenac — Floral, ripe fruit, supple tannins, immediate charm. 92
Chateau Cantenac Brown — Good concentration and ripeness, sweet fruit, supple tannins. 91
Chateau Dauzac — Good concentration, a bit too extracted but solid potential. 88
Chateau Desmirail — Floral, spicy, good concentration, moderate tannins. 89
Chateau Durfort Vivens — Floral, medium-bodied, pretty fruit, moderate tannins. 90
Chateau Ferriere — Floral, good concentration, excellent weight and depth, moderate tannins. 93
Chateau Giscours — Good concentration, moderate tannins, good balance. 90
Chateau Kirwan — Floral, good concentration, red and black fruits, moderate tannins. 92
Chateau Labegorce — Concentrated and complex, minerality, firm tannins, good potential. 92
Chateau Lascombes — Good concentration and complexity, shows finesse and elegance, moderate tannins. 94
Chateau Malescot Saint-Exupery — Floral, elegant, concentrated, charming, moderate tannins. 94
Chateau Marquis de Terme — Concentrated, good depth, firm tannins, good potential. 93
Chateau Monbrison — Floral, complex fruit profile, moderate tannins, good potential. 92
Chateau Prieure-Lichine — Good concentration, floral, spicy, moderate tannins. 92
Chateau Rauzan-Gassies — Good concentration, some heft and richness, moderate tannins. 92
Chateau Rauzan-Segla — Good concentration, depth, complexity, moderate tannins. 92
Chateau Siran — Floral, complex fruit aromas, wood spice, moderate tannins. 93
Chateau du Tertre — Medium-bodied, lacking charm, modest tannins. 84
Saint-Julien
Chateau Beycheville — Textured and elegant, supple tannins, excellent concentration, richness and depth. 96
Chateau Branaire-Ducru — Good concentration, medium body, moderate tannins. 89
Chateau Gloria — Good concentration, spice, red fruits, moderate tannins. 91
Chateau Gruaud Larose — Well-balanced, medium body, moderate tannins. 88
Chateau Lagrange — Medium body, floral, spicy, good potential. 90
Chateau Langoa Barton — Good concentration, depth, richness, moderate tannins. 91
Chateau Leoville Barton — Good concentration, well-balanced, spicy, moderate tannins. 91
Chateau Saint-Pierre — Floral, medium body, spice, moderate tannins, good potential. 90
Chateau Talbot — Floral, spicy, good concentration, excellent potential. 92
Pauillac
Chateau d'Armailhac — Concentrated, elegant, firm tannins, depth of fruit, good potential. 93
Chateau Batailley — Floral, complex fruit aromas, fine tannins, good length, excellent potential. 94
Chateau Clerc Milon — Good concentration, medium body, firm tannins. 88
Chateau Croizet-Bages — Floral, spicy, medium body, fine tannins. 90
Chateau Grand Puy-Ducasse — Good concentration, complex fruits, moderate tannins. 88
Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal — Good concentration, minerality, firm tannins, potential. 90
Chateau Lynch-Bages — Excellent ripeness, richly layered, well-balanced, dark fruits, moderate tannins. 94
Chateau Lynch Moussas — Good concentration, minerality, length, moderate tannins. 89
Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande — Good concentration, moderate tannins. 91
Saint-Estephe
Chateau Cos Labory — Floral, good concentration, supple tannins. 91
Chateau Lafon-Rochet — Ripe fruit, excellent depth, plush, supple tannins. 91
Chateau Ormes de Pez — Excellent concentration and depth of fruit, structured, well-balanced, good potential. 92
Chateau de Pez — Concentrated and layered, excellent depth, good balance, great potential. 94
Chateau Phelan Segur — Concentrated and layered, dark fruits, good structure and balance. 92
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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