PARIS — As my Boeing 787-900 touched down at Charles De Gaulle, I quietly thanked American Airlines for reminding me why I fly business class on long international flights.
My re-education began when I arrived in Dallas for my connection to Paris. I was informed of a change from a 787-800 to a 787-900 with eight fewer business class seats. This forced the airline to bump me back into premium economy, or behind the curtain — real or imagined — as I call it. The gate agent explained I had been "downgraded."
Although initially annoyed, I quickly rebooted and decided to accept the downgrade as an opportunity to find out what goes on behind the curtain. I'm no stranger to economy class on trans-Atlantic flights, but it's been years, especially since I was diagnosed with a medical condition that puts me at greater risk of blood clots. The more comfortable go-flat seats mitigate that potential danger, in my opinion.
But the No. 1 reason I fly business class to Europe is the broader selection of wines and decidedly better cuisine that help pass the time. I was curious about the offerings in what the airline calls premium economy.
Once seated, I ordered a Spanish white wine, macabeo, from a producer I didn't recognize. It was the only white wine offered. My wife ordered a vodka and tonic. After a few sips of the woody macabeo (I doubt the wood influence was from nicely seasoned French barriques), I looked longingly at my wife's vodka and tonic.
Then came dinner. It was either a pesto pasta or Cajun chicken. We both opted for the Cajun chicken, which arrived in an unappetizing pool of cream sauce. Two bites were enough. My gaze moved to a foil-wrapped cheese labeled Gruyere, but it tasted nothing like Gruyere. Bland and milky, Cheez Whiz came to mind.
The most edible item on the plate was something called a "brookie," a cross between a brownie and a cookie. But, hey, by then, I was desperate.
At the end, I thought my salvation would be a switch to a vodka and tonic, which my wife seemed to enjoy. It was served with a wedge of lime.
The cocktail smelled funny. Turns out the lime was infected with trichloroanisole (TCA), a compound that, when present in high-enough levels, imparts a musty aroma in wine, food and other beverages. When we smell it in wine, we say the wine is "corked."
I thought, "My vodka and tonic is corked? What next? Sacre bleu!"
Tasting Notes
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
ROAR 2017 Chardonnay, Soberanes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands ($45) — ROAR does a remarkable job with this chardonnay, showing its inviting characteristics of lemon creme and spice with impressive length. Richly layered and fleshy on the palate, it will pair nicely with cream sauces and oily fish, such as salmon or Chilean sea bass. Rating: 94.
Sonoma-Cutrer 2018 Rose of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($25) — Beautifully crafted and exquisitely balanced, this salmon-colored rose from Sonoma-Cutrer is made in the style of Provence. Showing notes of fresh strawberry and citrus, the flavors are delicate but linger on the finish. Crisp with mouthwatering acidity, this rose can be served as an aperitif but is even more interesting and enjoyable paired with smoked or grilled salmon or steamed shellfish. Rating: 94.
Quinta do Vallado 2017 Reserva Douro Branco, Portugal ($47.99) — The Douro region of Portugal is the home of Port wine, of course, and a growing legion of dry red wines that are some of the finest in western Europe. Much less known is white wine from the Douro, referred to as vinho branco. Quinta do Vallado makes its vinho branco from three obscure grape varieties — gouveio, arinto and rabigato — and the result is an intriguing mineral-driven white that shows notes of citrus and crunchy green apple. It's delicious, very dry and truly unique. Rating: 93.
Paraduxx 2017 Proprietary White Wine, Napa Valley ($32) — Nothing Paraduxx does surprises anymore. The winery that pioneered various blends of cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel is up to its old tricks with an eclectic white blend that is sure to please. The 2017 Proprietary White highlights the floral magic of viognier with the subtle lushness of marsanne and roussanne, and the bright lemon, apple and pear notes of chardonnay. Fermented in stainless steel tanks (as opposed to oak barrels), the result is a complex white that is fresh, crisp and refreshing on the palate but has enough richness to handle strong flavors and cream sauces. Rating: 92.
Frescobaldi 2017 Alie Ammiraglia Rose, Toscana IGT, Italy ($22) — The historic Frescobaldi house of Chianti has entered the rose arena, though not with a sangiovese-based wine as you would suspect. Its Alie rose is primarily syrah with a touch of vermentino, a white grape. The result is a beautiful dry rose that is crisp and refreshing with notes of strawberry, cherry and spice. Rating: 91.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. Email Robert at whitleyonwine@yahoo.com.
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