By Patricia Woeber

The Cote d'Azur stretching from Cannes to Menton along the Mediterranean coast brings to mind the cachet of luxury hotels, yet this strip of land is part of the Alpes-Maritimes departement (county). This area of Provence in southeastern France offers a rugged backcountry that's paradise for sports-lovers and has natural and man-made marvels.

The Alpes-Maritimes, tucked along the Italian border, possesses fascinating contrasts — sophisticated resorts along the seaside, then farther inland medieval hillside villages, rugged mountains with an Alpine landscape of fir forests (as high as Mount Gelas at 10,300 feet), gorgeous colored valleys and to top it all off, the high rocky Mercantour National Park with ancient pictographs engraved on rocks.

It takes just an hour's driving north of the coast near Menton to reach these. But first, only half an hour north, stop in the town of Breil-sur-Roya in the Roya Valley to discover an interesting cultural mix. The valley is described as Italian with a French accents and sense of aesthetics. Constant reminders of this combination are evident: flat bread covered with tomato paste (like pizza), espresso coffee drunk strong and black with lots of sugar, and the Breil dialect that incorporates Latin words. On some "newer" buildings (16th, 17th and 18th century) decorative features and walls painted with warm pinks and yellows give an Italianate flair reminiscent of the Italian Riviera.

History explains the blend of cultures. For centuries the Roya Valley was half French and half Italian. A huge area belonged to the Duke of Savoy, who favored this land as his best hunting ground. In fact, the upper Valley of the Roya only joined France after World War II, in 1947, when the people of Tende and La Brigue made that choice. Some of the Riviera, including Nice, had done the same in 1860.

Going higher into the mountains for another half-hour brings a lovely sight from the road. The village of Saorge looks like a necklace of 11th century medieval houses strung together across the mountainside. The beautiful streets are hand-paved with water-smoothed oblong river pebbles. Venanson, another village worth visiting, seems to float on a ridge and offers spectacular views overlooking the Vesubie Valley River.

For centuries these villages were isolated as the main road bypassed the area. Instead, it ran farther west, over the Tende Pass through the village of Sospel. The new road from the south that was constructed some 40 years ago brought this isolated area closer.

In the rugged parts of the Alpes-Maritimes, nature has taken its course with marvels of artistic effects, carving valleys and gorges and exposing canyons with a variety of colors, virtually a painter's palette. For example, the Roya Valley's purple rocks are interspersed with green striations, while the cliffs of the Daluis Gorge boast ruby red and the nearby Cians is actually yellow. Gorges north of Puget-Theniers look as if they were sprinkled with black ash, and the Gorge du Paganen's gray rock adds to the feeling that nature has outdone herself with numerous masterpieces in this area.

More amazing sights are found in the Mercantour National Park. These are thousands of Bronze Age (1800 to 1500 B.C.) engravings that were scratched into ochre-colored flat schist rocks that had been smoothed by ice during the Glacial Age. The surprisingly small drawings measure just a couple of inches long; their significance is magnified by their survival.

The carved shapes, such as horns, represent the bull of the Mithras cult. This was a mysterious religion during the first to fourth centuries that was based on the worship of Mithra, a Persian god, who, it was believed, was born from a rock and had been a welcome guest of Sol, the god of the Sun. Mithra was killed by a bull.

The engravings depict worshipers and are admired for their extraordinary gestures of raised arms on tiny stick figures. Other drawings portray maps of villages and successful battles. In ancient times inhabitants of the valleys trekked up to this high-lying land and formed these sacred places.

It's necessary to hire a professional guide to lead hikes to the most interesting sites such as the Vallee des Merveilles (Valley of Marvels) and Fontanalbe. A visit to either is a full day's outing. For these trips and other outdoor activities, guides are available in Saint-Martin-Vesubie and Breil-sur-Roya.

Within the Mercantour Park lies a range of activities that include marked trails for walkers, hikers, horse-riders and mountain-bikers. The lakes and rivers attract swimmers, kayakers, river-rafters and fishermen looking for trout. The Roya Valley alone has 25 mountain lakes. Rocks for climbers are abundant.

The town of Saint-Martin-Vesubie was a fashionable resort with 10 hotels before World War II, but during the postwar economic slump tourism fell off. The area is unknown compared to the Riviera, yet this town, cradled between fir-covered hills, is a perfect base for lovers of the outdoors in spring, summer and fall. Le Boreon is for hiking and cross-country skiing in winter. Alpine skiing is available at La Colmiane.

Back down to the coast, deluxe hotels include La Reserve de Beaulieu with the charm of an Italian Renaissance villa. Its restaurants, rooms and heated saltwater pool are a splash away from the sea. In Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, the Royal Riviera Hotel claims to have one of the largest pools on the coast as well as offering a private sand beach.

WHEN YOU GO

Air France has daily flights to Paris from U.S. gateway cities: www.airfrance.us. Then either drive north of Menton to the D620 or north from Nice on the N202. Spring and fall are the best times for hiking. The GR52, part of the French Grande Randonnee walking trail network, links the town to Gorges de Saorge and Vallon de Zouayne.

Hotel Castel du Roy in Breil-sur-Roya: www.castelduroy.com

In Beaulieu-sur-Mer, La Reserve de Beaulieu at www.reservebeaulieu.com or the Royal Riviera at www.royal-riviera.com. There are dozens of other hotels from luxury to budget.

For more information, contact the French Government Tourist Office: www.rendezvousenfrance.com .

The ancient villages in the Alpes-Maritimes area of France are typically built of local stone and tiled roofs and have narrow streets. Photo courtesy of Patricia Woeber.

The 11th-century bridge in the French village of Sospel boasts a watchtower in the middle of the span. Photo courtesy of Patricia Woeber.

Patricia Woeber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.