By Carl H. Larsen
Amid the tongue-twisting towns of central Wales — places such as Aberystwyth and Abergynolwyn — you can hear the rare chugging, hissing and whistling sounds of narrow-gauge railways that have somehow survived into today's Digital Age. These steam trains, relics of an earlier industrial era, make their way from coastal towns into the hills and valleys of a pastoral countryside.
Each major tourist attractions, 11 of the short-line railways are marketed as the Great Little Trains of Wales. The lines have their own distinct engines and rolling stock and are operated in most cases by groups of enthusiastic volunteers who keep the trains running on precise schedules. And each has a story to tell of how it was nearly abandoned by railway cutbacks brought by wartime austerity and a changing economy.
Along with children and nostalgia-loving adults, I recently visited two of the rail lines — the historic Talyllyn Railway and the nearby Vale of Rheidol Railway. Both offer convenient connections to mainline rail services linking them with the rest of Britain.
Starting on the Welsh coast at Tywyn, the seven-mile-long Talyllyn Railway claims the title as the world's oldest preserved railway and will celebrate its 150th anniversary in 2015. Its engine No. 1 is among the oldest steam railway engines still operating. Built on a narrow gauge of 2 feet, 3 inches to traverse hillsides and steep grades, the Talyllyn trains at first glance aren't much wider than trains you might see at an amusement park. But for many years they did the heavy job of transporting slate from hillside quarries to piers.
The Talyllyn's Narrow Gauge Museum contains an exhibit on the rail line's most famous volunteer — the Rev. Wilbert Awdry, the author who created Thomas the Tank Engine. Awdry's experiences as a guard on the Talyllyn made it into many of his popular books about a mythical narrow-gauge railway. His whimsical stories have direct connections to the Talyllyn line, including one of the woman left behind. As a volunteer train guard, it was Awdry who left the Refreshment Lady behind when his train pulled out of a hilltop station.
To the south on the Welsh coast, at the university town of Aberyswyth, the Vale of Rheidol Railway operates a few steps away from the city's mainline train station. The 12-mile line makes its way east along the Afon (River) Rheidol to Devil's Bridge, a 666-foot climb that tests the sturdy steam engines. Here the parallel tracks are just shy of 2 feet apart.
The line's passenger service started in 1902 and holds the distinction of being the last steam-powered railway of the government-operated British Railways. Owned today by a charitable trust, the Vale of Rheidol is operated by a paid staff of workers.
A trip on the line begins deceptively as the train quickly leaves town and follows the river through flat farmland. Then the climb starts, and the engine is soon straining to make its way up a twisting track through dense forest hugging hillsides and postcard views overlooking lakes and farms. Along the way, there are small stations where the train stops to pick up hikers and those on a picnic. Halfway up the grade a stop is made to fill up the engine's tanks with fresh water.
The narrow-gauge trains have no aisles inside the small cars, but that's no matter because there are frequent stops and full refreshment and toilet facilities at each end of the short line.
The belching engine, shrill whistle and smell of coal are enough to hook many wanting to immerse themselves into becoming a part of the steam-railway experience. Many of the lines offer volunteer opportunities, or memberships, as well as "footplate experience" training in running a locomotive. For many the excursions are daylong outings that allow leaving the trains for walks on well-marked trails along the line, stops for picnicking and, on the Vale of Rheidol Railway, a stop at the ice-cream parlor at Devil's Bridge. A roundtrip adult ticket costs about $26.
What the tracks don't tell passengers is the story of how dedicated rail enthusiasts in the 1940s and 1950s fought to keep these Lilliputian lines alive. Maybe because they are far from large cities, they were forgotten and just kept on running until preservationists were able to step in and take over the operations. Unlike static museums that house locomotives and train cars, the equipment here is kept in working order and has been lovingly restored so that the engines and cars - some more than 100 years old — appear as if they are brand-new.
"All aboard that's coming aboard," shouted a Talyllyn conductor before we headed off on our journey.
Who could resist jumping aboard these time machines?
WHEN YOU GO
Steam-train excursions — Talyllyn Railway, www.talyllyn.co.uk; Vale of Rheidol Railway, www.rheidolrailway.co.uk; the Great Little Trains of Wales, www.greatlittletrainsofwales.co.uk
For more information — www.americas.visitwales.com, www.visitbritain.com, www.visitmidwales.co.uk.
Where to stay— In Aberdyfi, the Penhelig Arms overlooks the coast near a mainline train station: www.penheligarms.com.
Abergavenny — The Angel Hotel has been voted best afternoon tea outside of London: www.angelabergavenny.com.
Aberystwyth — Gwesty Cymru on the Cardigan Bay promenade has great rooms and fabulous food: www.gwestycymru.com.
Cardigan — Caemorgan Mansion has been lovingly restored by its owners and opened in 2013 as a charmingly exquisite estate to stay for a relaxing getaway — great food, too: www.caemorgan.com.
Llanwrtyd Wells — Lasswade Country House offers a warm welcome with mainline rail nearby and food cooked to order: www.lasswadehotel.co.uk.
Tour guide — Richard Smith of Cambrian Safaris offers customized tours of Mid Wales: www.cambriansafaris.co.uk.
Mainline train information, tickets and passes — BritRail, www.britrail.com; ACPRail, www.acprail.com.
A popular rural, scenic railway route between Swansea and Shrewsbury is on offer at www.heart-of-wales.co.uk.
Carl H. Larsen is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
View Comments