By Sharon Whitley Larsen
"Wales is funny," said our guide, Richard Smith of Cambrian Safaris. "Most people know about North and South Wales. But Mid Wales — one-third — tends to get missed out. Not many Americans visit."
My husband, Carl, and I were on our third visit to Wales — an area about the size of New Jersey that is easily accessed by a two- or three-hour train ride from major U.K. cities such as London or Birmingham. As most American tourists are apt to do, on two previous trips we had first toured the southern area — Cardiff, Swansea, St. David's — and then the North — Anglesey, Portmeirion, Caenarvon, Llandudno. So this was our first time in Mid Wales, where we would spend five days in small tongue-twisting towns that we couldn't pronounce, much less spell.
And what a magical time it was!
As enthusiastic Smith (originally from London) expertly maneuvered his Range Rover, with nearly every curve of narrow country road (some so narrow we had to back up to let another car pass) another picture-postcard view popped up. The stunning scenery — vivid green fields, grazing sheep, waterfalls, hills, yellow wildflowers and heather — took my breath away.
From Aberdyfi to Aberyswyth to Abergavenny, we met proud, friendly folks who love living here, whether they were born in their small town and never left or relocated years ago from England, the Netherlands or other areas. I could see why — I'd love to live here, too!
Smith's knowledge of off-the-beaten-path country roads, local legends, old churches, waterfalls and historic properties — including ruins of the 13th-century Castell y Bere — gave us a unique perspective of the area. We stopped at tiny, charming, old mining communities for a bite to eat; one cozy cafe with small tables and worn armchairs sold used books and handmade crafts and clothing by locals to raise money for community projects.
We toured Machynlleth on market day (every Wednesday, rain or shine — a tradition since 1291), where locals set up tables on the two main streets, selling baskets, fruit, clothes, candy and household items. We had lunch at the tiny, popular Number Twenty One and were lucky to be seated without a reservation.
Via two narrow-gauge steam train excursions — the Talyllyn Railway and the Vale of Rheidol Railway — we snapped photos of the sweeping views.
We were intrigued with the New Quay Honey Farm, the largest in Wales, housed in a former old chapel. Some 40,000 people visit each year, and it's fascinating to watch the bees busy at work in glass enclosures, as well as a tropical ant colony — a great educational experience for kids and adults.
Another fascinating tourist stop was the Dolaucothi Gold Mines, where Carl and I donned hard hats with lights and trekked up a hill with a dozen others, including children, to enter the mine for an hourlong tour, experiencing a bit what it was like during Victorian times. (It also has the only Roman gold mine believed to be still in existence.) Back then, our guide told us, miners — including children — worked 12-hour days. During winter months some reported to work early in the morning, when it was dark and left the mine after dark, never seeing daylight.
Once we were inside the eerie, damp, dark mine, stooping over now and then to avoid hitting our heads, our guide had us turn off our lights to experience the pitch black. She lit a small candle, explaining that the length of the burned candle at the end of the day showed how long the miner had worked.
"There were no safety regulations then, no special clothing or hard hats with lights," she pointed out.
The mine closed in 1938.
Once back outside, some visitors tried their luck panning for gold.
From outdoor activities such as hiking, walking, mountain-biking, horseback-riding, fishing and boating to organic gourmet delights, Mid Wales has much to offer. This is a gastronomic paradise, offering sustainable farming with delicious farm-to-table cuisine. Popular restaurants with award-winning chefs and food festivals abound, and we were blown away by the food — cheese, chocolate, honey, eggs Benedict, lamb, duck, beef and salmon — even organic whiskey!
As the brochure for the Taste Trail Ceredigion aptly noted, "Enjoy the fine foods of Ceredigion ... .The green hills, sparkling rivers, sandy shores and clean fresh air are guaranteed to produce a healthy appetite. Follow our trail through glorious countryside or along our breathtaking coastline, taking time to meet the producers as you savor some of the most natural produce from Cardigan Bay."
Abergavenny, the gastronomic capital of Wales, holds its food festival every September, and tiny Llanwtyd Wells, known for its food and beer, boasts "Taste Llanwtyd," showcasing the local produce.
In the heart of Wales, between the Brecon Beacons and the Cambrian Mountains, the claim to fame of Llanwrtyd Wells (besides being the smallest town in Britain with a population of 600) is that it's renowned for its quirky events, such as the World Alternative Games, which has included Bog Snorkeling, Finger Wrestling, Wife Carrying and Backwards Running. Victorians flocked here to sample the healing mineral spring waters, and there's a Victorian Festival every August.
Here we stayed at the cozy three-story Lasswade Country House, built in 1904, and enjoyed chatting with owners Roger and Emma Stevens. I could not stop gazing out the windows at their emerald-green fields with grazing sheep. Each night Roger, an award-winning chef, has dinner guests select from three items for the appetizer, main course and dessert. The menu changes daily, and a sample of locally sourced main course selections includes Local Cambrian Mountain Lamb, Seared Breast of Gressingham Duck or Fillets of Red Mullet.
While Wales fascinated us, it also has another fan: President Barack Obama recently observed during his Wales visit for the NATO Summit, "You have a beautiful country with wonderful people and great hospitality. I'd encourage everybody from the States to come to Wales."
WHEN YOU GO
www.americas.visitwales.com
www.visitbritain.com
www.visitmidwales.co.uk
www.tourism.powys.gov.uk
www.tourism.powys.gov.uk/machynlleth.php
www.aberdyfi.com
www.aberystwyth.com
www.discoverceredigion.co.uk
www.visitwales.com/explore/mid-wales/ceredigion
www.llanwrtyd.org.uk
www.visitabergavenny.co.uk
Other places to visit:
Dolau Cothi Gold Mines: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/dolaucothi-gold-mines
New Quay Honey Farm: www.thehoneyfarm.co.uk
Center for Alternative Technology — since 1974 a living, working community to test alternative technologies and lifestyles: www.cat.org.uk.
Devil's Bridge Falls: http://www.devilsbridgefalls.co.uk
Corris Craft Center: www.corriscraftcentre.co.uk
Castell y Bere: www.visitmidwales.co.uk/Tywyn-Castell-y-Bere/details/?dms=3&venue=0864886
Where to stay (and dine):
The Penhelig Arms (Aberdyfi) overlooks the coastline and is a charming place with fabulous eggs Benedict: www.penheligarms.com.
Gwesty Gymru (Aberystwyth) on the Cardigan Bay offers a promenade, great rooms and fabulous food: www.gwestycymru.com
Caemorgan Mansion (Cardigan) has been lovingly restored over four years by its owners and opened in 2013. This is a charmingly exquisite place to stay for a relaxing getaway and great food: www.caemorgan.com
Lasswade Country House (Llanwrtyd Wells) is a place we hope to return: www.lasswadehotel.co.uk.
The Angel Hotel (Abergavenny) has been voted the best afternoon tea outside of London: www.angelabergavenny.com.
Information on events:
Taste Trail Ceredigion: www.tastetrailwales.co.uk
"Take the trail and taste the difference." Prince Charles, who has a home in Wales, has visited several of these organic food destinations, which include Da Mhile Distillery (the first organic farmhouse distillery in the United Kingdom): www.damhile.co.uk and Teifi Farmhouse Cheese (the most highly awarded raw milk cheese in Britain): www.teificheese.co.uk
www.tastellanwrtyd.co.uk/index.php/find-us
www.worldalternativegames.co.uk
www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com
www.visitwyevalley.com
www.breconbeacons.org/visitor-information
Tour guide: Richard Smith, Cambrian Safaris, www.cambriansafaris.co.uk (a unique, customized private tour of backcountry Mid Wales)
Trains: BritRail, www.britrail.com; ACPRail, www.acprail.com (We like the convenience of the four- or eight-day Flexi-pass to travel around the United Kingdom.)
www.heart-of-wales.co.uk (popular relaxing, rural, scenic railway route between Swansea and Shrewsbury)
www.traveline-cymru.info
Steam train excursions: www.talyllyn.co.uk and www.rheidolrailway.co.uk
Sharon Whitley Larsen is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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