By Bonnie and Bill Neely

The surprise trip Bill planned for my birthday took us to Mexico City. I was thrilled, but I asked, "Why did you decide to bring us here?" He replied, "Because the whole country will celebrate your birthday!" And what a celebration it was.

Arriving on Oct. 31 was fun because from morning until all through the night everyone was in costume and most had their faces painted or wore masks. In some cities this "hiding" would seem threatening, but the immense crowds that thronged the streets were orderly and peaceful, happily celebrating family and honoring the ages-old traditions of their culture. Some shops were giving candies and small treats to children. Many entire families, from a baby in arms to grandparents, wore imaginative costumes, often created by the wearers.

In the city park across the street from our hotel were many tents with souvenirs for the celebratory weekend. The people seemed to be natural-born artists who love to create, so the hand-made items were many and varied, all brightly designed as if nature itself were bursting forth in a riot of color. Carvings, sculpture, clay and wood items, fabrics and needlework, masks, figurines, ceramic cups and bowls, and paintings were among the popular items, different in each artist's tent. And the face-painting tent was popular, with lines of adults and children waiting to see what new face would be created for them.

We walked the Zocalo, the huge plaza that was also the center of all the festivities. We enjoyed the park with its fountains, tall trees, colorful flowers and exquisite architecture, especially in the Palacio de Bellas Artes.

Literally thousands of people calmly merged as we crossed the streets when the traffic lights signaled "Walk." We waited our turn for one of the numerous upstairs bars where we could get a late-afternoon snack and a margarita and watch all the Zocalo activities. We were especially fascinated with the natives who performed their heritage dances in authentic costumes of feathers and furs, moccasins, beads, tomahawks, drums and elaborate headdresses. The hundreds of imaginative other costumes thronging around the Zocalo were fun to see and photograph.

Each home throughout Mexico honors its dead loved ones on this date every year by creating an altar containing the four elements of air, fire, earth and water; a picture of the deceased being honored; and some of that person's favorite foods and toys, clothing and earthly treasures. The altar is crowned with a religious picture. Orange and yellow marigolds and chrysanthemums create a walkway, which guides the spirit of the deceased to its earthly home and to his or her altar, also decorated with these flowers.

A special family meal of the deceased's favorite foods is served with a place set at the table for the spirit. The tradition springs from centuries of tribal and early Christian beliefs that include knowing that life is eternal and death is just one stage of passing through and not to be feared. Children learn this custom early, so they understand that the Day of the Dead is a celebration and that the scary-looking costumes are just to deter evil spirits from blocking their joy. The family visits the cemetery with flowers or other decorations for remembering and honoring the loved one during this celebratory period.

On Nov. 1, the Day of the Dead, a huge parade marches through several miles of Mexico City. We had walked to the Zocalo in the morning before the scheduled 2 p.m. parade to enjoy the activities and do some shopping. But blocks away from our hotel a huge deluge of rain began, and all of our rain gear was back in our room. We hurried along, getting soaked, but the enterprising locals magically offered thousands of disposable raincoats for sale. We were grateful because the parade route was blocked and we couldn't reach our lodgings.

It turned out that the parade was delayed by two hours. Thousands of people lined both sides of the street about 12 layers deep, undaunted by the weather, so the food vendors walked about selling soft drinks, water, sweets and pizza. Other enterprising craftsmen appeared with handmade stools to purchase so those at the back of the crowd could see.

At long last the most elaborate event of the year began with huge floats, small vehicles, bands, dancers and people on stilts, all with fanciful costumes and most featuring skulls and skeletons. The parade was a two-hour spectacle that delighted everyone.

Our trip to Mexico gave us a new understanding of the people in Mexico City and their customs. They celebrate life with exuberance and color and infected us with their joy. What a birthday I had, and what a great time of year to visit Mexico.

IF YOU GO

We stayed at the Hilton Mexico City Reforma, which was close to all of the celebrations and right on the parade route: www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/distrito-federal-d/hilton-mexico-city-reforma-MEXRFHH/index.html?SEO_id=GMB-HH-MEXRFHH&y_source=1_MTIxNjk1MjItNzE1LWxvY2F0aW9uLmdvb2dsZV93ZWJzaXRlX292ZXJyaWRl

Families in Mexico honor their lost loved ones with altars in their homes on the Day of the Dead. Photo courtesy of Bill Neely.

A painted street strewn with flowers is typical of celebrations in Mexico City on the Day of the Dead. Photo courtesy of Bill Neely.

Parade floats featuring skeletons and skulls commemorate the Day of the Dead in Mexico City. Photo courtesy of Bill Neely.

Bonnie and Bill Neely are freelance writers. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

Families in Mexico honor their lost loved ones with altars in their homes on the Day of the Dead. Photo courtesy of Bill Neely.