From Slavery to "I Have a Dream" on the National Mall

By Travel Writers

October 1, 2017 8 min read

By Jim Farber

Every year millions of visitors to Washington, D.C., spend a day on the National Mall. They visit its many museums, memorials and the grandiloquent structures that represent our seat of government. There's so much to see that it can be overwhelming.

But I would like to suggest a tour with a very specific focus — a day on the Mall exploring the roots of slavery in America to the rise of the Civil Rights Movement. Begin at the Capitol. Visit the new Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture. Walk around the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial and end your day on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial, where King delivered his "I have a dream" speech. It's an experience you and your family will long remember.

The cornerstone of America's Capitol was laid on Sept. 18, 1793, by George Washington. The building as we know it today was completed in 1865. But it's only in recent years that tours have begun to point out the role African-American slaves played in its construction - from carving the great sandstone blocks of its foundation to casting the heroic bronze "Statue of Freedom" that stands atop the dome.

It is a dark chapter that runs contrary to everything the building was meant to stand for, and it took 222 years before Congress (in 2005) appointed a task force to research the subject in conjunction with the Office of the Architect of the Capitol.

No one will ever know how many slaves helped to build the U.S.Capitol Building or the White House, the report, titled "History of Slave Laborers in the Construction of the United States Capitol," concluded. But based on its research the report revealed that "Slaves were likely involved in all aspects of construction, including digging the foundation, carpentry, masonry, carting, rafting, plastering, glazing and painting. Slaves also appear to have shouldered alone the grueling work of sawing logs and cutting stones."

Of the thousands of unrecognized slaves who labored on the Capitol, one man, Philip Reid, achieved renown. A highly skilled metal worker, Reid was owned by Clark Mills, whose bronze foundry was given the task of casting the statue (by Thomas Crawford) that would stand atop the dome. It was Reid, a slave, who oversaw the casting of the Statue of Freedom. The colossal creation, depicting a draped female figure holding a sheathed sword in one hand and a laurel wreath in the other, was raised into place in 1865. It stands 288 feet above the site where Barack Obama was sworn in as the 44th president of the United States.

On Sept. 24, 2016, the long-awaited Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture opened to the public. It instantly became the most popular and heavily attended museum in Washington. It would be easy to spend an entire day exploring its galleries and incredible collection of artifacts.

After reserving a timed ticket the best way to begin is by descending to the museum's Lower Level Galleries. The chronology begins with "From Slavery to Emancipation." A winding succession of galleries features objects from the horrific days of the slave trade and "The Middle Crossing" to an actual slave cabin alongside stacked bales of "King Cotton."

"From Segregation to Today" chronicles the post-Civil War era of Reconstruction, the rise of the Ku Klux Klan, Jim Crow segregation and the birth of the Civil Rights Movement. It culminates with a display that includes the inaugural dress worn by Michelle Obama.

The guiding principle of the museum is that the African-American story is not just for African-Americans. It is an American story filled with horror, heroic struggle, significant triumphs and lingering ghosts, as we can see from the emergence of Black Lives Matter and violent confrontations over the removal of Civil War monuments.

The museum's upper floors are dedicated to achievements of African-Americans in sports, music, popular culture, art, literature and the military — from Louis Armstrong's horn and Jackie Robinson's uniform to James Baldwin's passport and Chuck Berry's cherry-red Cadillac.

The Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial is located in West Potomac Park, just off the National Mall. Its creation was the result of more than two decades of planning, fundraising, site selection and an international design competition that attracted 900 submissions. The completed project opened to the public on Oct. 16, 2011, the 16th

anniversary of the Million Man March.

Its centerpiece is the 30-foot-tall "Stone of Hope" created by the Chinese sculptor, Lei Yixin . With a look of grim determination on his face and his arms crossed, the figure of King emerges from a single vast piece of white granite. Behind the towering figure a 400-foot-long Inscription Wall is etched with 14 memorable excerpts from King's speeches, sermons and personal writings. One says simply, "We shall overcome."

It's only appropriate to end the day at the Lincoln Memorial. After viewing the statue of the man most responsible for ending slavery in America, it's possible to stand on the steps where King spoke the words "I have a dream" and look back toward the Capitol, the place where this journey of discovery began.

WHEN YOU GO

The Capitol Visitors Center (located below the East Plaza) is open 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday: www.visitthecapitol.gov.

Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture,

15th Street and Constitution Avenue, open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Timed entry passes are required: www.si.edu/museums/african-american-history-and-culture-museum.

Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial, 1964 Independence Ave. Open 24 hours a day.

 A child visits the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial in West Potomac Park in Washington, D.C. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.
A child visits the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial in West Potomac Park in Washington, D.C. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.
 The Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture is one of the most popular places to visit in Washington, D.C. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.
The Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture is one of the most popular places to visit in Washington, D.C. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.
 A statue of Clara Brown sits on the porch of a slave cabin at the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington, D.C. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.
A statue of Clara Brown sits on the porch of a slave cabin at the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington, D.C. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.

Jim Farber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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