By Sharon Whitley Larsen
"This is the one place where I can truly relax."
Thus once stated Britain's Queen Elizabeth II about her home on the high seas — the majestic 412-foot Royal Yacht Britannia, which sailed more than a million miles in 44 years to over 600 ports in 135 countries on 968 official royal visits with a crew of 276.
And since October 1998, the Britannia — one of the most famous ships in the world — has been opened for tours. Owned by the Royal Yacht Britannia Trust and berthed in Edinburgh's Leith port, via self-guided audio tours some 300,000 annual visitors get to see how royalty once lived at sea.
Prior to boarding, visitors can browse a vast display of royal photos, posters, mementos, letters and ship items. Lifts between the five decks make the tour easily accessible.
The 83rd in a line of royal yachts dating to 1660, the Britannia was completed in April 1953 by John Brown's Clydebank Shipyard in Scotland to replace the aging Victoria and Albert III, and it also had the ability to function as a hospital ship, if needed. It could produce its own fresh water from seawater, and a two-month supply of meat and fish could be stored in the cold rooms. The dairy and vegetable rooms could hold enough supplies to feed the entire ship for a month. Fresh bread was baked daily, and 100 chickens could be roasted at a time in the ship's two ovens.
Launched on April 16, 1953, it has hosted everything from formal state dinners to royal honeymoons — although not always a token of luck, since the four royal couples who honeymooned onboard ended up on rough seas, so to speak, eventually divorcing. The first couple, Princess Margaret and Antony Armstrong-Jones (later known as Lord Snowdon), honeymooned on the ship in 1960. Princess Anne (who celebrated her 21st birthday onboard) and her first husband, Capt. Mark Phillips, spent an unforgettable 1973 honeymoon enduring seasickness their first four days. Prince Charles and Princess Diana were aboard for 16 days on their 1981 honeymoon — noted for the princess's participating in a sing-along in the crew's mess. And the Duke and Duchess of York were the final honeymoon couple, sailing for five days in 1986. The honeymoon suite, the only room onboard with a double bed, was also used as the nursery.
The Britannia decor — light, airy and stylish — was unpretentious and comfortable, with brass metalwork, mahogany wood and white walls adorned with artwork, family photos and personal mementos. When the yacht was first completed no press were invited aboard, and publications offered a huge amount to obtain a photo of the queen's bedroom. Alas, none was successful.
Today, however, visitors can get a close-up look at her former sleeping quarters, which were decorated to utilize the bed linen bought for Queen Victoria on the previous royal yacht. There's a single bed with a pastel floral bedspread, a custom-embroidered silk panel on the wall above, a small desk, vanity and a full-length, three-way mirror. A connecting door leads to Prince Philip's quarters, and each has its own bath. The queen and Philip could press a button next to their beds to summon a royal steward.
The royal cabins have extra-high portholes to allow for privacy in case a crew member passes by on the outside deck. The ship also houses a post office, three galleys, laundry, small garage (for the queen's shiny Rolls-Royce Phantom V, used from 1960 to 1978), sick bay and operating theater.
The queen selected the deep-blue color for the ship, instead of the usual black. Its crest is on the stern, and its name does not appear on the side of the ship.
For a state visit, the queen would take five tons of luggage, including royal jewelry and Malvern water for her tea. Up to 45 members of the royal household would accompany her, including her surgeon, detectives, hairdresser, valets, footmen, ladies-in-waiting, press, private secretaries and chefs.
The Sun Lounge — a cozy area decorated with a blue-patterned sofa and bamboo — was the queen's favorite place onboard. This is where she would have breakfast and afternoon tea, enjoying the special ocean views through the large windows.
The Verandah Deck was used for cocktail receptions. Group photographs were taken with the royal couple by the ship's photographer, dubbed Snaps, and it was not uncommon for the queen and Philip to sneak away during a state dinner and autograph them. They were then framed and handed to the guests upon their after-dinner departure. This deck is where royal family members enjoyed painting with an easel, sunbathed or played deck hockey. A collapsible canvas pool was set up here for use by the royal children.
The State Dining Room hosted such dignitaries as Winston Churchill, Rajiv Gandhi, Boris Yeltsin, Nelson Mandela, Margaret Thatcher, Ronald and Nancy Reagan, and Bill and Hillary Clinton. In the early years it doubled as a cinema or for short church services (which all crew members were invited to attend) and for dancing.
Gifts given to the queen (which include shark's teeth swords, daggers, arrows and boomerangs from various South Sea Islands) are in glass display cabinets on the side of the room. It took three hours to set the 56 places for a state banquet (each place setting meticulously measured with a ruler), and the menus — in French — were given to guests as souvenirs. Today this room is rented out for corporate or private dinners, with food still prepared onboard. When the anteroom, drawing and dining rooms are opened together, up to 250 guests can be accommodated.
The State Drawing Room, with its mix of antique and modern furnishings, including comfortable chintz sofas and chairs, Persian rugs, a fireplace and fresh flowers (often from the gardens of Windsor Castle), was used as the main reception room. It was also where the royal family could relax together, playing games, reading James Bond novels or singing. The Walmar baby grand piano, firmly bolted to the floor in case of rough seas, was often played by guests, including Noel Coward, or by Princesses Margaret and Diana.
"Overall, the drawing room was to give the impression of a country house at sea," explained the ship's interior designer, Sir Hugh Casson.
The Britannia was decommissioned at 3:01 p.m. on Dec. 11, 1997 (hence all clocks onboard are stopped at that time). This ceremony was said to be the only time the queen was seen shedding a tear in public — and she hasn't been aboard since. In July 2011 other royals — including Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge —attended the onboard pre-wedding party of Zara Phillips, daughter of Princess Anne.
The queen originally had requested an open coal fireplace for the State Drawing Room, but since naval regulations required that a sailor would have to be on round-the-clock watch with a fire bucket, that idea was nixed. Instead, an electric fire was chosen.
Well, even the queen can't have everything.
WHEN YOU GO
Royal Yacht Britannia is a 15-minute bus ride from the city center: www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk. There is a tearoom on the top deck, a shop selling fudge and other candy made onboard, and a large gift shop.
For more information: www.visitscotland.com and www.visitbritain.com
Sharon Whitley Larsen is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com
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