By Jim Farber
Long before the Shenandoah National Park and its scenic roadway, Skyline Drive, was established on Dec. 26, 1935, this long rocky crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains was home to "hollow folks," (by some accounts the inspiration for Dogpatch, USA, in the comic strip "Li'l Abner "), a hideaway for illegal whiskey stills and deserters fleeing the carnage of the Civil War.
It was the construction of the Skyland Resort in 1895, with its panoramic
views of the Shenandoah Valley below, that first attracted tourists, many anxious to escape the summer heat of Washington, D.C.
But it was the region's designation as a national park and the carving out of the 105 miles of Skyline Drive (by members of the Civilian Conservation Corps) that totally changed the park and made it into one of Virgina's great wilderness escapes and fall-foliage destinations.
Today the park is a hiker's paradise and a favorite rest stop on the Appalachian Trail. You can hike for hours in dense forest and then emerge onto a stony promontory from which you can see for miles. There are numerous campgrounds, but the favorite destination for those seeking a relaxing retreat remains the Skyland Resort, with its isolated forest cabins connected by walking trails and its beautiful dining room. The view from the deck at sunset (accompanied by a glass of wine) is memorable as the distant receding ridges of the Blue Ridge Mountains earn their name. For early risers the experience of a dawn walk is equally rewarding as the rising sun is accompanied by a chorus of birdcalls.
The Shenandoah Valley was not a friendly place during the Civil War. As the breadbasket of the Confederacy, it was heavily defended by the South and targeted for total destruction by the North. Those days are long gone, leaving behind a valley rich in scenic wonders, small towns such as Luray and historic inns whose architecture echoes days gone by but not forgotten.
Luray, on Virginia State Highway 340, is most famous for the wonders that lie deep beneath its soil — the Luray Caverns. This vast network of spectacular caves was first discovered in 1878. Eons in the making, its towering cathedrallike stalagmites, ever-dripping stalactites and mirror reflecting pools have made it the most heavily visited caverns in the East.
The caverns also have the distinction of showcasing the Great Stalacpipe Organ. Rather than using traditional pipes, the console of the Stalacpipe Organ activates mallets that strike stone formations chosen for their specific resonation. The result is real rock music.
Luray also offers some excellent historic accommodations. The elegant Mimslyn Inn was built in 1931, but its colonnaded portico and Greek revival architecture evoke the Antebellum era. The day I visited a period-costumed fiddle-player named Sue Custer was serenading visitors as sun was going down. Her melancholy rendition of "AshokanFarewell" added nicely to the valley's pastoral atmosphere. The inn, its bar, restaurant and cottages are a favorite stopover spot in Luray, as well as a romantic site for wedding parties.
A block away is the Chapman House, known for its farm-to-table dining and the adjacent 12-room Hotel Laurance. Originally built in 1830 as a mercantile establishment, it became the Hotel Laurance in 1883. Its newly renovated boutique look features clean-lined design. It's a nod to the past with all the modern amenities.
WHEN YOU GO
Shenandoah National Park: www.nps.gov/shen
Luray Caverns: www.luraycaverns.com
Mimslyn Inn. www.mimslyninn.com
Chapman House: www.chapmanhouseluray.com
Hotel Laurance: www.hotellaurance.com.
Jim Farber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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