By Doug Hansen
Our introduction to San Felipe began as we sat in the shade of a palapa admiring the turquoise waters of the nearby Sea of Cortez, when suddenly our guide pointed to a mysterious speck high in the sky. It steadily approached until we could see an ultralight aircraft swooping down in a graceful arc and halting abruptly on the sandy beach nearby to pick us up.
I volunteered to go first with the ever-smiling German pilot, Raphael, whose 14 years of flying experience reassured me as the fragile-looking craft soared high into the sky. The exhilarating flight lasted maybe 15 minutes, but it afforded an incomparable view of downtown San Felipe, which is surrounded by wide, sandy beaches, distant mountains and the dazzling hues of the Sea of Cortez.
My wife and I had flown to San Felipe, a small fishing town on the east coast of Baja Mexico, for a five-day exploration of the city and its surroundings. The recently inaugurated SeaPort Airlines' flight from San Diego to San Felipe took just over an hour, in contrast to the four-plus hours it would have taken to drive. Visitors also benefit from the newly refurbished Highway 5 from Mexicali to San Felipe, which has made the two-hour drive a much better experience.
The area's tourism manager, Ruben de la Pena Chavoya, proved to be not only an invaluable guide but also a remarkable diplomat. Wherever we went, Ruben would warmly greet someone he knew, from the local Navy admiral to the street jewelry vendor. In this way he demonstrated the appeal of this small, friendly town (population 25,000, including 7,000 foreigners) where everyone knows one another and visitors can have, as one resident remarked, "a Hemingway experience."
Despite the picturesque flight and Ruben's congeniality, at first I struggled to get comfortable with San Felipe. I went without any preconceived ideas; all I knew was that it was near the ocean and many Americans lived there. To be honest, I was troubled by my first impressions as we drove past abandoned or half-finished buildings with litter strewn pretty much everywhere. It was like a "tale of two cities" — the people I met in San Felipe loved the place, yet the impact of the precipitous drop in tourism since 2008 was visibly evident.
So I decided to dig deeper and uncover the aspects of San Felipe that draw such devoted fans as Mark and Terri Roberts, who have owned a home there for eight years. "What do I like best about this place? Its nice people, blue sky, blue water and constant activities so you're never bored," Mark said. "There are no bad days here. When I cross the border into Baja, I feel a sense of freedom. Baja is like the last frontier."
"Also, a lot of the older retirees will tell you that the fresh air and fresh fish have added 10 years to their lives," said his wife. "The medical care here is great and costs a lot less than in the States."
Ruben explained that tourism has declined drastically due to the 2008 recession and safety concerns about drug violence in Mexico. He pointed out that not only is San Felipe safe for visitors, but the economic downturn in the United States has actually enhanced the retirement appeal of San Felipe: A 2,000-square-foot custom home with an ocean view costs less than $200,000 to build, with monthly expenses so low that, as several residents asked us, "Where else can you get an ocean view and live comfortably on Social Security?"
As for our safety, my wife and I spent a good deal of time walking around downtown and on the long, empty beaches without a hint of danger. On a balmy Saturday evening we joined the local families who leisurely drove or strolled down the main seaside street. Many danced and clapped as musicians played their guitars and sang traditional Mexican love songs, while in the midst of the tumult a group of men incongruously played tubas, trumpets and clarinets, a bit off-key but joyful nonetheless. We felt comfortable and completely safe.
Since fresh water has become such a hot topic in California and San Felipe sits in the middle of a hot, desiccated desert, I wondered about the reliability of their water supply.
"No problem with water," Ruben assured us as we drove down a dusty road a few miles from town. Eventually we stopped at a nondescript patch of desert where five wells pumped fresh water from a vast underground aquifer.
Eating at a wide variety of restaurants proved to be one of the highlights of our visit. We savored a wide assortment of shrimp preparations, fresh fish tacos, broiled fish, heaping mounds of fresh clams (found in abundance) and other traditional Mexican dishes. San Felipe's food was remarkably good and inexpensive. Armando Ramos, the owner of our hotel (the San Felipe Marina), claimed that "the most exciting food in Mexico is coming from Baja California."
Our favorite excursion involved a day trip south of San Felipe during which we visited a new retirement community, explored a natural seaside hot springs at Puertecitos and marveled at the towering 2,000-year-old saguaros in the Valley of the Giants. We capped our tour by feasting on awesome fish tacos at Alfonsina's Resort at Gonzaga Bay, a combo hotel and restaurant nestled on a long wedge of sand between two pristine, azure-colored bays.
As we prepared to leave San Felipe, I reflected on our overall experience. We had enjoyed great meals, friendly people, fun activities and the riveting shades of blue in the Sea of Cortez. As one old-timer retiree wisely pointed out: "There is no utopia. Everywhere has its pros and cons." San Felipe has a subtle desert charm and affordability that should attract many more visitors in the years to come. The pros definitely outweigh the cons.
WHEN YOU GO
We stayed at San Felipe Marina Resort and Spa: www.sanfelipemarinaresort.com.mx.
Our ultralight flight was with Vuelos Panoramicos. For reservations e-mail rs_ultralight@yahoo.com.
One of our favorite places to eat was Baja Mar Restaurant and Bar, Mar de Cortez No. 101, 686-577-2648. Another was the Sweet Spot, No. 162 Malecon, 686-577-6366, which is owned by former NFL player D'Andre White. Mariscos la Morena, on the Malecon, 686-577-0915, was voted San Felipe's Best Seafood Restaurant in 2014. Also check out Rice and Beans Restaurant, Malecon No. 262, 686-577-1770.
El Dorado Ranch, about 10 minutes north of San Felipe, is one of the largest retirement communities in Mexico: www.eldoradoranch.com.
Rancho Costa Verde, about 30 minutes south of San Felipe is a new, self-sufficient community that is currently underway: www.rmac.com.
SeaPort Airlines flies from San Diego to San Felipe on Mondays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays: 888-573-2767 or www.seaportair.com.
For general information about Mexican tourism: www.sanfelipe.com.mx or www.discoverbajacalifornia.com
For the Baja Ministry of Tourism emergency hotline for visitors 24/7 dial 078.
Doug Hansen is a freelance writer and photographer whose photos and articles are at www.hansentravel.org. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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