By Jim Farber

"There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games" — Ernest Hemingway.

Windstar's luxury yacht, Star Pride, outward bound from Barcelona with a passenger list of 189 and a crew of 150, arrived in the port of Monaco at dawn. The sea was calm, and the only sound was a chorus of birds that greeted the sun as it crested the mountains of the Cote d'Azur, casting an orange glow on the royal palace and the craggy promontory known as "The Rock."

Star Pride was far from alone. Boats of all kinds, from cruise ships the size of floating cities to single-masted sailboats, were converging to take part in the 76th Formula 1 Grand Prix de Monaco. For three days this citadel of elegance (and conspicuous consumption) would echo to the roar of 1,000-horsepower racing cars and the over-amped beat of techno, producing a party like no other. It's a race where fans can perch for free on the hillsides above the harbor and look down on the multimillion-dollar yachts of Russian oligarchs and Arab oil sheiks.

"Do you see that boat?" a fellow passenger pointed out. "That's the Dubai. It's the largest yacht in the world."

I had come to Monte Carlo to fulfill a dream that dated back to my childhood, when I watched the race on ABC's "Wide World of Sports." In those days I'd been an avid Grand Prix fan following the exploits of Sterling Moss, Graham Hill and Jackie Stewart. What I was about to discover was the reality of the Grand Prix de Monaco up-close and personal.

Prior to our arrival, our on-board expert, longtime motorsports commentator Bob Varsha, had prepped us with the precision of a pit-crew chief. He'd taken us through every curve of the course from Sainte Devote and Mirabeau to Beau Rivage and the Nouvelle Chicane. He'd handicapped the teams, including the best — Red Bull, Ferrari and Mercedes — and "the best of the rest": Sauber, McLaren and Force India. He introduced us to the drivers who were likely to dominate the field: Red Bull's flying Dutchman, "Mad Max" Verstappen, and his teammate, Daniel Ricciardo; Mercedes' Grand Prix points leader, Lewis Hamilton; and Ferrari's Sebastian Vettel.

He explained the all-important choice of tires: "They'll probably go with the Ultrasoft or Hypersoft. But if it rains, all bets are off." He discussed the sport's staggering economics and the arms-race-level quest to gain any technical edge. He talked race history: "The first race in 1929 took three hours 56 minutes," he said. "Last year's race was won in one hour and 44 minutes!" By qualifying day we were ready.

To enter Monte Carlo on race day is like thrusting yourself into a human beehive and a gauntlet of souvenir stands: red for Ferrari; red, blue and yellow for Red Bull; black for Mercedes; and pink for Force India. From start to finish it's a sensory overload of engine roar and blazing speed as these remarkable high-tech cars navigate their way through the few remaining Grand Prix circuits that qualify as real road racing.

That first day Verstappen produced the fastest practice lap (one minute and 10 seconds), only to plow his car into the wall the next time around. He qualified but had to start at the back of the field, which at Monaco, where it's almost impossible to pass, means winning is all but impossible.

With qualifying over, Monte Carlo parties. Laser lights pierce the sky, dancers gyrate in artificial fog, champagne flows like water and the racetrack turns into a techno-beat block party. Ultra-fancy cars were parked in front of Monte Carlo's famous Casino, but the only place James Bond appeared was on the drinks menu.

The start of the Grand Prix is like that amplifier in "Spinal Tap," the one that goes up to 11. It's a 20-car adrenalin rush that even Varsha, who has covered the race more than once, still finds thrilling to the core. Then, as the pack spreads out, the sound becomes all-enveloping. Necks crane as the cars speed by. Massive screens provide live images (including from the cars themselves) along with race statistics. A live international commentary calls the race, shifting between French, English and Italian.

As things turned out, Daniel Ricciardo led the race from the pole to the checkered flag. But during the entire race the Ferraris were in hot pursuit. The other story was Verstappen, who began the race in 20th position and finished ninth, an amazing feat of driving. Then as "Dandy Don" Meredith used to say, it was time to "Turn out the lights, the party's over." As sunset lit the palace, the harbor and the hills beyond, Star Pride made her way gracefully to the open sea, homeward bound for Barcelona.

There are experiences that truly qualify as bucket-list-worthy. The Grand Prix de Monaco is one of them. Traveling with the passengers and gracious crew of Windstar made the experience even more memorable. And FYI: Tickets for next year's cruise are already available.

WHEN YOU GO

Windstar Themed Cruises: www.windstarcruises.com/destinations/themed-cruises

Seats at the Grand Prix in Monte Carlo, Monaco, provide a view of the race course and Monte Carlo Harbor. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.

The night before the Grand Prix, parties abound on yachts in Monte Carlo Harbor. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.

Windstar's Star Pride lies at anchor in Monte Carlo, Monaco. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.

Jim Farber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.