By Robert Selwitz

Colombia, 50 million people strong, dominates northwestern South America. It features stunningly diverse climates and cultures with terrain ranging from Amazonian jungles to soaring mountains and Pacific to Caribbean coast beaches. For a compact sampling of Colombia's offerings, first visit Bogota. Then head for gorgeously preserved Cartagena.

Seeing the sights in Bogota's oldest area is the reason most visitors come, but many don't feel comfortable staying here. That's why almost all international visitors stay a half-hour's cab ride away in upscale northern areas such as the Zona Rosa. When you're not touring, you are staying in a vibrant, safe area within walking distance of dozens of restaurants and shops. That means that though you must budget for continual taxi rides you can easily access Bogota's fine dining and exciting club scenes.

When morning comes, if you haven't signed on for a tour, have your hotel call a taxi for you or arrange for a savvy driver to stay with you for several hours while you sightsee. Having your hotel or restaurant order transportation for you is mandatory. Under no circumstances should you hail a cab on the street. Rogue taxis have been known to participate in "empty your ATM account" scams and worse.

Once downtown, head for the world-renowned Gold Museum, home to more than 50,000 ornaments that include body decorations such as bracelets, rings and crowns and astoundingly intricate devotional objects. Among the best is a miniature raft manned by a priest who offers gold and prayers to the goddess of Lake Guatavita.

Other must-sees are the massive Plaza Bolivar, home to the cathedral, and the surprisingly modern Palace of Justice. This replaced the original building following the government-ordered 1991 tank and artillery attack that drove out occupying Pablo Escobar-sponsored rebels.

Also see the Cultural Center, which includes the Botero Museum, home to many of Fernando Botero's paintings as well as works from his own collection. The National Museum and the elegant 17th-century St. Augustine church are also intriguing. Most of Bogota's other main draws are best seen with a guide and driver. You'll want to scale the heights via a teleferico (cable car) to reach Cerro de Monserrate (elevation 10,341 feet) that's topped by a modest church. Views over the city, particularly at dusk, are worth the trip.

During daytime, via a tour or accompanied by a guide, Candelaria is a must. This area where Bogota was founded features cobblestoned streets and colorful graffiti, most of which is worthy of close inspection. During daytime Candelaria is packed with tourists, and your only real cautionary move is to secure your wallet and valuables. When the crowds thin out, however, you don't want to stand out as a lone tourist, tempting those who might be seeking a robbery or mugging target.

Also well worth a visit with a guide are a former residence of the great South American liberator Simon Bolivar and the fascinating and vast Paloquemao farmers' market.

Cartagena, founded in 1533, is the prime port by which gold and other riches were shipped back to Spain. Within the historic city walls are elegant colonial architecture, excellent food and a perpetual sense of safety.

Two major Plaza de Bolivar sites include the historical museum, which for two centuries was the headquarters of the dreaded Inquisition, and the gold museum, much smaller than Bogota's but also fascinating. You'll also want to visit the statue and sanctuary of St. Pedro Claver, an extraordinary priest who won sainthood for his efforts to aid slaves. And definitely take an excursion outside the walls to explore the massive Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. It is thought to be the largest fortification Spain built in the New World.

Speaking of city walls, there are many places where you can ascend to the top and stroll for miles. And when you need a break, buy a cup of amazingly sweet mango and watermelon slices — one of Cartagena's most refreshing snacks.

WHEN YOU GO

Sofitel Bogota Victoria Regia is an elegant, perfectly located hotel with excellent service that is a short, safe walk from top restaurants and shops: www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-0561-sofitel-bogota-victoria-regia/index.shtml.

The Zaitun Restaurant offers great fusion dining in the heart of Cartagena's District Historico: wwwzaitun.com.co.

. Colorful architecture is found throughout Cartagena, Colombia. Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

One of the most refreshing snacks in Cartagena, Colombia, is mangos and watermelon served on the street in takeaway cups. Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

This statue of St. Pedro Claver is one of the most-loved and most-touched in Cartagena. Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

Robert Selwitz is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.