By Jim Farber
How can you not love a little town in California's picturesque, historically rich gold country, where the best restaurant for miles is called "Taste" and the best boutique hotel (almost next door) is called "Rest"? And how can you not love a town that offers the perfect gateway to the Shenandoah Valley Wine Trail, one of California's less discovered treasures? That's why Plymouth rocks!
Located on the gold trail itself, state route 49, Plymouth is situated between the towns of Jackson to the south and Placerville to the north. I'm sure many an eager motorist has blinked and missed it. That's too bad.
Plymouth may not possess the perfect Mark Twain main street of Angels Camp or the hip vibe of Placerville, but its intimate flavor and access to the wineries of the Shenandoah Valley make it destination-worthy.
Amador County has nurtured wineries since the years following the 1849 gold rush, but it has only been in the last 40 years or so that the quality of the region's wines challenge the marquee establishments of Napa and Sonoma.
The Shenandoah Valley is the westernmost, least elevated and warmest region within the Sierra Foothills. Summer temperatures regularly top 100 degrees. The extreme heat results in very ripe fruit that yields full-bodied wines with a high alcohol content. The region is renowned for the quality of its zinfandels and Rhone varietals. A favorite local saying is, "Everybody must get Rhoned!"
The story of the Shenandoah Valley wine experience cannot be told without recognizing the role played by Bill Easton, whose Domaine de la Terre Rouge/Easton winery is a must-sip destination on the trail. Easton (who grew up roaming Amador County as a kid) has been making a case for the valley as the ideal place to grow Rhone varietals for more than 30 years. If you're lucky, Bill and his wife, Jane, will be there to greet you in their tasting room.
There are so many worthy vineyards/tasting rooms along Shenandoah Road just north of Plymouth (off Fiddletown Road): Shenandoah Vineyards, Villa Toscano Winery, Borjon Winery, the C.G. Di Arie Tasting Room, Vino Noceto and Sobon Estate. And be sure not to miss the estate-bottled Barberas at Cooper Vineyards grown by Dick Cooper, "The Godfather of Barberas."
But it all starts in Plymouth.
Like many of California gold rush towns, Plymouth's original name of Pokerville or Poker Camp reflected those hurly-burly days when fortunes could be made in days and lost in minutes. The first post office opened in 1871, and the city was incorporated (under its more respectable name) in 1917.
As a tourist attraction Plymouth can't rival such historically rich destinations as Placerville (originally Hangtown), Columbia or Coloma (site of the Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park). Its delights are the Rest Hotel and its culinary gem, Taste Restaurant and Wine Bar, created, owned and overseen by Chef Mark Berkner.
With its menu featuring many local farm-to-table seasonal delights, its extensive wine list, and exceedingly comfortable dining room and bar, Taste is the eatery of choice for visitors and locals. Don't be surprised during grape-crush season to find local vintners hanging out at the bar discussing the harvest.
Here is a sampling of Taste's dinner menu: Sakura Farms Pork Tenderloin, house-made gnocchi, sugar snap peas, foraged mushrooms, butter toasted almonds, green garlic puree; Creekstone Farms Filet Mignon, potato and sunchoke terrine, rainbow carrots, Brussels sprouts, truffle creme fraiche, sauce bordelaise; Day Boat Sea Scallops, English peas, pea shoots, green garlic arancini, pancetta, cilantro-lime beurre blanc; Rosen Farms Rack of Lamb, couscous salad, shaved fennel, piquillo pepper piperade, spiced yogurt and tarragon.
Beautifully situated just a few steps away from Taste is Rest, a boutique hotel with a historic setting and a modern sensibility. In addition to its elegantly appointed rooms and fresh-baked breakfast goodies, Rest offers the Amador Uncorked wine-tasting tour, led by wine expert Justin Lewis, as a non-driving way to experience the Amador Wine Country. The tour includes four hours of transportation starting from 10:30 to 11:30 with pickup at Rest. Lunch and tasting fees are not included, but the nearby Amador Vintage Market offers a nice variety of picnic items.
WHEN YOU GO
Shenandoah Valley Wine Trail and Amador County information: www.amadorwine.com/wineries
Rest Hotel: 209-245-6315 or www.hotelrest.net
Taste Restaurant and Wine Bar: 209-254-3463 or www.restauranttaste.com
Jim Farber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
The vineyards in California's Shenandoah Valley rival the quality of those in the Napa and Sonoma counties. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.
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