By Sandra Scott
Author Pearl Buck called the Yangtze "The wildest, wickedest river on Earth." All that changed when the river was tamed upon the completion of the Three Gorges Dam in 2012. Cruising the river between the gorges is still spectacular and the shore trips fascinating, and now there is the added experience of moving through the flight of five locks.
I decided to board Century's Legend River Cruise from Yichang in the evening so that I could explore the ship and get settled before the morning departure. This is my idea of a perfect cruise ship with a maximum capacity of about 400, but it was not fully booked because it was still early in the season. The ship was so quiet and smooth it was hard to tell if we were motoring or at anchor.
Everything was elegant — from the pool on the lowest level to the top viewing deck. There was a full-service spa, a beautiful movie theater, a hair salon, a reading room, a children's play area, a few small shops, a lounge with a bar and stage, and two dining rooms. I immediately felt at home in my plush, roomy stateroom on the Executive Floor. There were two TVs, one for ship information and the other even had CNN. Most of the time I was able to connect to the Internet from my laptop, and there were a couple of computers available in the VIP lounge for guests to use.
I loved sitting on the balcony and admiring the scenery, and most nights I kept the sliding doors open so that I could fall asleep in the fresh air. The marble bathroom had a rain shower, a tub and a special tap for potable water. I would have been content to stay onboard, but there were shore tours that were too enticing to miss. Most of them are included - nice touch - and the ones for purchase are very reasonable.
The first day started with tai chi, and after breakfast there was a demonstration of traditional Chinese medicine. Then I took the tour of the Tribe of the Three Gorges, which turned out to be my favorite. Tours are grouped by language, so there was always an English-speaking guide. It was one of two tours that incurred an extra charge, but it was only $46 and well worth it.
The area is called Dream Land, and I can see why. It was a misty day that brought to mind landscapes on Chinese silk paintings. The walk up one side of the gorge and down the other was broken up with wonderful sights, such as a beautiful young girl clad in red standing in a small traditional boat while a young man entranced her by playing the flute. There were girls washing clothes in the river, fishermen, monkeys scurrying about, scenic waterfalls and, as a grand finale, our group was invited to a mock traditional wedding with someone from the audience picked to portray the groom.
In the afternoon we visited the Three Gorges Dam, the world's largest power station, which is sometimes referred to as the "Great Wall of the Yangtze." The visitor center has a display that explains the power project, and several banks of escalators ascend to the top.
At the end of the first full day — and what a full day it was — I joined the other guests at the captain's welcome party, after which the crew entertained with an excellent cabaret show that included a face-changing routine wherein the performer in traditional dress changes his face mask faster than the eye can perceive to the approving oohs of the audience. After the show it was time to go to the top deck and watch the Legend navigate through the massive locks. Unlike most of the ones we had traversed in other places, there were two sets of five locks to allow traffic to go both upstream and downstream simultaneously.
Other day trips included one to the Goddess Stream on a traditional-style boat that cruised between the narrow precipitous mountains and another to the 184-foot Shibaozhai Pagoda. I passed on the optional tour to the White Emperor City with 2,000-year-old temples because I wanted to enjoy some of the onboard activities.
I had an acupuncture treatment and foot reflexology to revitalize my tired legs. There were also mahjong lessons, line-dance instructions, an informational presentation on how to select pearls and a tour of the captain's bridge. Just cruising through the gorges was beautiful, and from my balcony I enjoyed the views of small villages that dotted the countryside.
In hindsight I wish I had booked a round-trip cruise so I would have had more time to enjoy all the shore trips and onboard activities. I never found time to fit in a movie in the state-of-the-art theater or swim in the pool or partake of afternoon tea in the Cheers Bar and Lounge. I was sound asleep when it was time for midnight snacks in the Globe Restaurant.
The meals were excellent and offered selections that would appeal to international passengers. The last evening everyone enjoyed the captain's farewell Chinese dinner with a wide selection of international items served Chinese-style, which meant dishes were placed on a lazy Susan and people helped themselves. The dinner included a traditional lion dance - a wonderful end to an amazing voyage.
WHEN YOU GO
No visit to China can be considered complete without a cruise on the Yangtze River, the largest river in China and third largest in the world. The most luxurious river cruise ship is the new Century Legend, which launched in 2013: www.centuryrivercruises.com. For accommodations before and after the cruise consider the Crowne Plaza in Yichang (www.crownplaza.com) and the Intercontinental in Chongqing (www.intercontinental.com/chongqing).
Sandra Scott is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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