By Robert Selwitz

Savannah is America's ultimate change-of-pace city. Decidedly laid-back and quirky, its unique mood is spiced by fabulous restaurants, intriguing history, magnificent homes and a laissez-faire attitude.

Founder James Oglethorpe wanted to keep his new colony of Georgia — named for England's King George II — free from liquor, slavery, lawyers and Catholics, but he failed. What did last was his elegant, well-planned city featuring interlocking parks, broad avenues and an economy that's always thrived via trade on the adjoining Savannah River.

Now home to 140,000 people, Savannah was settled in 1733, a year after the founding of Georgia, as the last of the 13 original British Colonies. Under Oglethorpe's guidance — and influenced by his studies of the design of Roman military camps — it featured two dozen public squares. Amazingly, 22 of them are still in place.

One of the most famous dwellings is the elegant Williams House, built in 1860 by the grandfather of composer Johnny Mercer. It is notorious as the site of the 1980 murder that inspired the wildly popular 1994 John Berendt novel — and subsequent movie — "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil," and since then that saga has inspired a surge in Savannah tourism.

Another must is the Davenport House, a Federal-style structure finished in 1820 by builder Isaiah Davenport. Originally occupied by Davenport, his wife, 10 children and nine slaves, following his death in 1827 it became a boardinghouse, a role it played until 1938. Though seriously in disrepair and threatened like many other former grand dwellings with demolition, it became one of the first to be repaired and revitalized during the mid-1950s.

Today you'll see the decidedly separate upstairs-downstairs family and slave quarters, early indoor plumbing, and restored period wallpaper and furnishings.

Also visit the Owens-Thomas House, built in 1819 and purchased in 1830 by the then-mayor of Savannah, George Welshman Owens. Over several decades he kept nine to 15 slaves at the property in addition to hundreds enslaved at his plantations. The juxtaposition of two-story slave quarters at one end of the property and magnificent, tastefully decorated living quarters and adjacent tasteful, restful garden is not easily forgotten.

Savannah also boasts the Congregation Mikve Israel synagogue, among the oldest in North America and founded by Spanish and Portuguese Jews the same year the city was founded. The present structure, consecrated in 1879, features stately areas of worship as well as an upstairs museum with a medieval copy of the Torah written on deerskin and a 1789 letter of greetings and congratulations from President George Washington.

Away from Oglethorpe's squares is River Street, paved with ballast stones that helped sailing ships maintain balance. Then stroll along Factors Walks, crossed with overhead bridges. They allowed cotton merchants to inspect and consider bidding upon inbound shipments as they were unloaded.

This maritime link was and is critical since — according to 2018 statistics —Savannah's 2.2 million container TEUs (20-foot equivalent units) handled ranks it after the combined New York-New Jersey, and Los Angeles-Long Beach ports. By itself, Savannah is the single largest North American container port.

During warm weather visitors can also enjoy the beaches and seascape at Tybee Island, 18 miles from the city. Here are Fort Screven with 19th-century concrete gun batteries, and the Tybee Island Light Station and Museum.

For something quite different check out the Prohibition Museum. Highlights include tales of legendary criminal gangs and souped-up cars that rural moonshiners used to outrun police. A museum spokesperson said these runs were the founding spark behind today's popular NASCAR racing.

Savannah is also a fabulous dining town. Paced by the elegant Olde Pink House, the city is a fascinating center of clever cooking that ensures enticing dining is always on the menu.

WHEN YOU GO

The Olde Pink House Restaurant is a Savannah landmark serving clever Southern cuisine in an elegant former mansion: www.plantersinnsavannah.com/olde-pink-house-restaurant.

The Alligator Soul restaurant is set in a former Colonial-era grain warehouse and features innovative riffs on traditional cuisine and warm and friendly service: www.alligatorsoul.com.

Cha Bella Restaurant offers locally sourced and lovingly prepared American classics that change with the seasons: www.cha-bella.com.

Old Town Trolley offers frequent fascinating citywide on-off tours stopping at 15 key Savannah sights: www.trolleytours.com/savannah.

Marshall House Hotel provides comfortable lodging within easy walking distance of most attractions: www.marshallhouse.com.

For more general information: www.visitsavannah.com

A display at the Prohibition Museum in Savannah, Georgia, gives visitors insight into that period. . Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

The juxtaposition of slave quarters with the grandeur of the Owens-Thomas House in Savannah, Georgia, gives visitors pause. Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

The historic Old Pink House in Savannah, Georgia, is today an elegant restaurant. Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

Robert Selwitz is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com

A display at the Prohibition Museum in Savannah, Georgia, gives visitors insight into that period. . Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.