By Sheila Sobell
"Downton Abbey" it isn't.
Hever Castle, the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, is described by Brits as "homely," meaning intimate, more on the scale of a manor house than a traditional castle. Protected by moat, drawbridge and murder holes, it has graced the Kent countryside for more than 700 years. During its history it has sheltered two of Henry VIII's wives and later a number of other wealthy families. In the early 20th century it was bought by William Waldorf Astor as his family home. Today it is a commercial endeavor that combines historical conservation with 125 acres of stunning gardens created by Astor, a 38-acre lake, Festival Theater with performances and jousting events, guest accommodations, golf and private-hire facilities.
The interior combines design, art and furnishings spanning seven centuries. But it was a handful of intimate artifacts belonging to the woman who was queen of England for just 1,000 days that made our visit poignant. On the upper floor in the Book of Hours Room are two illuminated prayer books containing Anne's signature. Each is called the "Book of Hours" because they contain several short prayers to the Virgin Mary that were recited at eight designated times throughout the day. The first is Illustrated with a hand- painted woodcut of Jesus Christ carrying the cross with a title page inscription reading "The time will come, I am Anne Boleyn." The other contains the haunting injunction "Remember me when you do pray that hope doth lead from day to day. Anne Boleyn." She brought this prayer book with her to her execution.
The castle celebrates the spirit of Anne Boleyn and the love that drove Henry VIII to renounce the Vatican and found his own church. Upstairs is the long gallery that was used for dancing, entertainment, exercise and showcasing collections. Here Henry would hold audiences when he visited . Through the stained-glass windows I saw Anne Boleyn's orchard, which in spring is a riot of daffodils .
In one corner is a tableau of mannequins representing Anne reading a love letter from Henry in 1522, when she retreated to the castle to avoid court gossip and his attempts to seduce her. Also in the gallery is the papal bull issued by Pope Clement VII in 1534 confirming the legitimacy of Henry's marriage to Catherine and their heir, Mary, and warning of excommunication if Henry disobeyed.
Since Hever Castle was the retreat where Anne carried on her courtship correspondence with Henry, I asked an interpretive guide dressed as Anne about the content of the king's love letters.
"They were very flowery and elegantly penned," she said. "Some were written in French and others in English."
Although a transcription of one of Henry's letters hangs on a wall, it was too high for me to read. In the gift shop, however, I spent $1.50 on a handsome little folio containing three of the couple's letters, including Anne's heart-rending last words to Henry. She clearly didn't know how to "confess the truth, and so obtain favor." Instead she wrote, "And to speak, a truth, never prince had wife more loyal in all duty, and in all true affection, than you have ever found in Anne Boleyn, with which name and place I could willingly have contented myself ."
Henry was indeed a prolific letter-writer. His endearments ran to 17 other letters held in the Vatican as proof that the grounds upon which Henry appealed to the pope for an annulment — Catherine was his brother's widow — were false.
When I asked guides which questions visitors to Hever Castle asked most frequently, one in particular really surprised me: When did the spelling of the family name change from "Bullen" to "Boleyn"? Because spelling in the Middle Ages was phonetic, everyone spelled things as they liked. Most English people spelled it "Bullen," while French pronounced it "Boleyn." Other even spelt it "Bolina."
Children, of course, are fascinated by the nitty-gritty workings of the castle, such as the medieval privy. Called the "garderobe," the primitive toilet would have been secluded behind screens. The toilet seat was positioned over a chute that jettisoned the waste into the moat or a pit. At some point, the garderobe also became a "wardrobe" where clothes could be hung. It was thought that the putrid odor acted like mothballs to protect fabric from fleas and other pests.
Kids can lose themselves in history exploring the Water Maze and 100-year-old Yew Maze. Adjoining the gift shop is a collection of miniature model houses providing a fascinating snapshot of life in England throughout the centuries.
In Anne's childhood bedroom there is a compelling portrait of her wearing her famous "B" pendant and sporting the latest "risque" hair covering influenced by French fashion. Though Anne was both smart and smartly turned out, she wasn't considered a great beauty. Instead she was criticized for her swarthy complexion, average height, wide mouth and small bosom.
According to the Venetian ambassador, apart from her long neck and black, beautiful eyes, there was "nothing but the king's great appetite to recommend her." If this description is accurate, the artist certainly painted Anne through rose-colored glasses. Or was Henry able to see beyond the superficial because he was entranced by her subtle intelligence and sense of play?
As striking as this portrait of Anne is, it's difficult to tell which likenesses are original and which are copies. As a rule, paintings were commissioned after someone's death. Later, other artists would use them as a model to copy for reproductions. All we know for sure is that all the art in Hever Castle was painted within 100 years of the originals.
Though few of the Boleyn family's antiques, tapestries, paintings and furnishings survive, a good attempt has been made to source accurate pieces appropriate to the era. The headboard on Anne's bed was cobbled together in Victorian times 300 years after her death, while Henry's imposing velvet-draped four-poster was actually sourced from 1540. There is no documentation to confirm that the room designated as his bedchamber actually was. Both the room and bed were chosen with a nod to their ample proportions — Henry himself took up a lot of space.
The top floor is devoted to Astor's family, with each bedroom decorated by one of his daughters. Astor's fortune made the castle the imposing masterpiece it is with award-winning gardens and sculpture.
But what is absent from the Hever experience is the chance to become involved in tableaux and interaction with living-history characters. Although a costumed guide will answer questions, the experience is otherwise self-guided, unlike Shakespeare's Stratford-on- Avon, where docents grace most rooms to recount stories of the inhabitants.
Still, visiting the castle is a wonderful peek into the life of a woman celebrated as a queen consort unparalleled in influence because she triggered Henry's split from the pope to found his own church. She was also a tragic figure manipulated by politics and superstition .
WHEN YOU GO
Information about visiting Hever Castle, overnighting in the 19 five-star bedrooms, enjoying concerts and other outdoor performances at its Festival Theater, and all other amenities can be found at www.hevercastle.co.uk.
Sheila Sobell and Richard N. Every are freelance travel photojournalists. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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