A Family Affair in London

By Travel Writers

March 1, 2020 8 min read

By Sharon Whitley Larsen

"Look, Kalea! There's Windsor Castle! It's over 900 years old! The oldest and largest occupied castle in the world! And the queen is there most weekends! We'll be touring it inside tomorrow!"

I couldn't contain my excitement to show my precocious and delightful niece, 8, what I love about Union Jack territory — from historic royal castles, vivid green fields with grazing sheep to "Mind the Gap" British charm.

We had just arrived at London's Heathrow Airport with her folks — my younger brother Mark, sister-in-law Betiana — and my husband, Carl. We rode in a hired SUV with a driver for 25 minutes to our first stop, Windsor. The hillside castle was off the motorway in the distance, and Kalea gave an excited yelp when she saw it.

I had been Kalea's age when I first fell in love with all things British after watching Princess Margaret's lavish 1960 wedding on black-and-white TV and receiving a thank-you note that year on Windsor Castle letterhead from Queen Elizabeth II's lady-in-waiting in response to my letter to the queen's daughter, Princess Anne, suggesting that we be pen pals.

As Kalea's loving aunt, I had been bringing her British souvenirs since she was a toddler, later reading her stories about the kings and queens of England. So I had an idea — which took more than a year of planning — of treating Kalea and her folks to a 10-day school-break trip to England (two days in Windsor, six in London). I booked round-trip economy tickets on British Airways from LAX to London for a bargain $600 each.

This was my 36th visit to England since age 19. But this time it would be a challenge for five travelers of different ages, interests and diets. And I had to be mindful to visit places that would delight a child while not wearing out her little legs with long walks and endless lines. So I decided to show Kalea my favorite spots: Windsor Castle (including Queen Mary's Dolls' House and St. George's Chapel), Hampton Court Palace, the Tower of London, London Eye, British Museum, Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey and the Churchill War Rooms. It would be a lot to cram into a week, but I knew we could do it.

After checking into the Travelodge in Windsor city center we strolled around town in the evening; the castle, lit up, was magical. The next day when we toured it Kalea chose the children's app, which put her on a mission to find listed items — sort of like a royal scavenger hunt.

We first stopped at Queen Mary's Dolls' House, completed in 1924. Kalea was intrigued that the miniature books were real, as well as the tiny full wine bottles. Even the plumbing worked.

She loved the challenge of the castle's scavenger game ("Find the place where 10 kings are buried") and the child's quiz booklet — "Queen Victoria at Windsor Castle."

Leaving Windsor behind, we all rode into busy, congested London.

"Are there fun things to do in London?" Kalea queried. I assured her that there were.

We checked into the family-friendly Premier Inn (by the London Eye) and the next morning walked to nearby Waterloo Station for a 40-minute train ride to Hampton Court.

"Who lived here?" I prodded Kalea as we strolled onto the grounds.

"Henry VIII!"

"And who was his daughter who also lived here?

"Queen Elizabeth I!"

My tutoring had paid off.

Excited to tour Hampton Court, Kalea happily took the child's app and large complimentary pamphlets geared for children: "Henry's Palace," which told about his six wives, and "Is the Palace Haunted?"

The following morning we took a 25-minute boat ride from the dock near our hotel to the Tower of London. I've always loved the tower's entertaining and humorous Beefeater tours, but the large group we joined made it hard to hear the commentary.I then insisted that we see the Crown Jewels because I knew that lines there could be long. That was a highlight for Kalea.

The next day we all climbed into an iconic black taxi and headed to the British Museum, where Kalea — fascinated by the Egyptian mummies and the famed Rosetta Stone — enjoyed strolling around and snapping photos. We also attended an Evensong at Westminster Abbey and toured the popular Churchill War Rooms. Luckily the line wasn't long and we got in right away.

"Do you know who Winston Churchill was?" I asked.

"He was like the president?" she responded.

I explained that he had been the British prime minister during World War II and that we would see a museum and the underground rooms where he had conducted the war with his cabinet and generals.

"It will show you how people lived back then — 75 years ago," I pointed out, "with old furniture, typewriters, telephones — including a direct undersea line to the White House." I also told Kalea that his mother, Jennie, was American. She was intrigued with this visit.

Her favorite England trip activities?

"1) Hampton Court, 2) Windsor Castle and 3) the London Eye!"

She was a real travel trouper.

I can't say who had more fun — Kalea or me. And I look forward to traveling with her again.

WHEN YOU GO

Windsor:

Travelodge: www.travelodge.co.uk/hotels/329/Windsor-Central-hotel

Windsor Castle: www.royal.uk/royal-residences-windsor-castle

Visit Windsor: www.windsor.gov.uk

London:

Premier Inn, County Hall: www.premierinn.com/gb/en/hotels/england/greater-london/london/london-county-hall.html

London Eye: www.londoneye.com

Hampton Court: www.hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace/#gs.z0lu7c

Tower of London: www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london

British Museum: www.britishmuseum.org

Westminster Abbey: www.westminster-abbey.org

Churchill War Rooms: www.iwm.org.uk/visits/churchill-war-rooms

Visit London: www.visitlondon.com

Visit Britain: www.visitbritain.com

 A bagpiper plays near the London Eye. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.
A bagpiper plays near the London Eye. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.
 The author and her family tour London's Hampton Court Palace on a rainy day. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.
The author and her family tour London's Hampton Court Palace on a rainy day. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.
 The author's niece, Kalea enjoys the mummies at London's British Museum. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.
The author's niece, Kalea enjoys the mummies at London's British Museum. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.

Sharon Whitley Larsen is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com

A bagpiper plays near the London Eye. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.

Like it? Share it!

  • 0

Travel and Adventure
About Travel Writers
Read More | RSS | Subscribe

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE...