By Victor Block
World-class museums stand shoulder to shoulder with flower markets festooned by rainbows of color. People crowded into cafes and pubs chat, sip coffee and other beverages, and watch the passing traffic, which consists of as many bicycles as automobiles.
This is the setting in one of the greatest small cities in the world, which is the capital of one of the smallest countries in Europe. But anything that the Netherlands may lack in dimension — it's about half the size of Maine — it more than makes up for in diversity.
First-time visitors soon understand why the name Netherlands, which means "lower countries," is a perfect fit. Much of the land has been reclaimed from the North Sea and lakes, and more than one-quarter of the pancake-flat area is beneath sea level. It's protected by an elaborate drainage system of canals, dikes and pumping stations. Windmills pump water back over the dikes and are also put to work milling flour and other grains.
Amsterdam offers appeals that would make a much larger metropolis proud. A web of 17th-century canals crisscrosses the city, and boat tours are a popular way to take in many sights. Elegant homes that were built by wealthy residents during the 17th century "Golden Age" overlook the canals and cobblestone streets.
Belying Amsterdam's modest size are more than 70 museums, ranging from world-class to intimate. The Rijksmuseum, the country's national showplace, houses the most extensive collection of Dutch paintings in the world. The 17th- century exhibit includes nearly two dozen Rembrandts, enough alone to warrant a visit.
A priceless collection of works by Rembrandt also resides in the Rembrandt Huis, where the artist lived from 1639 to 1658. My favorite was the "View of Amsterdam," which was painted in 1640 and depicts a row of windmills lined up like soldiers in formation.
The Van Gogh Museum contains the largest number of masterpieces by that renowned artist. They include about 200 paintings and 500 drawings.
Much smaller, yet certainly as well- known, is the Anne Frank House. In this narrow townhouse, the young Jewish girl hid with her family for more than two years during the German occupation of the Netherlands in World War II. Among items on view are Anne's hand-written diaries. Her observations and reminiscences, some heartening, others chilling, have been translated into more than 70 languages.
There are many reasons to enjoy what Amsterdam has to offer, and there are at least that many to include visits to several of the country's rural villages. Their tranquil charms and laid-back personalities present a different yet equally as appealing face. Delft once was the world center for production of graceful Royal Delft Pottery with 32 factories there that produced ceramics with the distinctive blue-and- white colors. While only one factory remains, the town also has buildings dating from as early as the 13th century along with museums, markets and other attractions.
The area around IJsselmeer Lake is dotted with inviting old towns. They include the fishing villages of Monnickendam, Marken and Volendam, the cheese town of Edam and historic Hoorn, Enkhuizen and Stavoren,
A different experience awaits visitors to Giethoorn, a village that is reached by water and prohibits the use of cars. Locals traverse the four miles of canals in small flat-bottom boats, and many farmhouses have thatched roofs dating back to the 18th century.
A contrasting atmosphere is encountered in Maastricht, a city of about 120,000 residents at the southernmost tip of the Netherlands. It combines some of the best features of the country with touches of nearby France and Belgium. The result is an enticing amalgam of history, sightseeing and activities.
The people exhibit the characteristic Dutch friendliness and dry sense of humor. The joie de vivre like that of the French is evident in crowded cafes, tempting patisseries and boutiques displaying the latest Paris fashions. Even the surrounding countryside provides a different touch. It resembles the rolling hills of Belgium more than the flat lowlands characteristic of most of the Netherlands.
Residents of Maastricht revel in their city's reputation as a place for fun and frivolity. They're quick to point out the statue of the Spirit of Maas, a dancing sprite that combines a look of joy with a hint of naughtiness. They also note that their town contains a church for every week of the year, but a bar for every day.
At the same time, locals take pride in their city's history and reminders of its past. It has some 1,450 historic buildings and monuments, most of which are crowded into the town center. The mid-17th century Stadhuis (city hall) boasts a striking interior decorated with Brussels tapestries and painted ceilings.
The medieval Basilica of St. Servatius was begun in the sixth century, making it the oldest house of worship in the Netherlands. Of particular interest there are the largest bell in the country, a 150,000-pound clanger affectionately called Grameer (Grandmother), and ancient crypts.
Even a local hotel, the Derlon, has its claim to fame, with an archeological area in the basement that spans several centuries. On view are sections of a pre-Roman cobblestone road, part of a second-century Roman square and the remains of a wall and gate from the fourth century. This eclectic collection is characteristic of the variety that awaits discovery by visitors to the Netherlands.
WHEN YOU GO
For more information about the Netherlands, visit www.holland.com.
Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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