A Home Away From Home in Provence

By Travel Writers

February 6, 2022 6 min read

By Victor Block

My wife, Fyllis, and I fell madly in love at first sight of the house that was to be our home away from home for the next two weeks. Some places to stay, when traveling, are more than just somewhere to sleep at night. They become a part of the experience of visiting a destination and, at times, make for the best memories.

These accommodations provide an immersion in the local history, culture and lifestyle in a meaningful way. As a result, the sightseeing and travel that will come to define where you are begin in the lodging itself.

We recently explored the many treasures of Provence, France, and one of them turned out to be the beautifully renovated, century-old house where we stayed. In the past it was located on a farm. Since then, the picturesque town of Pernes-les-Fontaines has grown up around it.

At one time, the second floor of the building was used to store feed for farm animals. Touches of the past and of the present-day local lifestyle in the region adorn the walls.

These accommodations were part of our package with Untours, a travel company that lives up to its name. Before embarking on our journey, we received a wealth of helpful information about Provence. Upon arrival, we had a first-night hosted dinner with the local Untours representative who shared her knowledge of the destination, including insider tips unknown to many visitors, and took us to pick up our rental car.

Then we followed the Untours slogan to "live like the locals." That included driving on day trips to magnificent hill towns within a short commute from ours, shopping for food and preparing some meals "at home." All the while we did what we pleased without boarding a crowded tourist bus or mingling with the onslaught of other travelers likely to be encountered on a typical group tour.

In addition to visiting a sampling of the historic villages and hamlets that are the jewels of Provence, Fyllis and I took in much of what Pernes-les-Fontaines has to offer. We stopped by its ancient gems, strolled its narrow and winding streets and spent time at the weekly outdoor farmers' market, which is a staple of most of the villages in Provence.

Remnants of stone ramparts, similar to those found throughout the area, are among vestiges of the fortified medieval town. Its name refers to the 41 ornate public fountains that began furnishing water to its inhabitants in the 17th century but that today are not operational in order to preserve that precious resource.

The grandparents of Estelle Alcaraz, the landlady who lives next door, owned the house where we stayed and the surrounding land when it was an operating farm. The stone walls that enclose the yard are typical of those that proliferate throughout Provence and have done so for centuries.

A grape arbor that shades an outdoor dining area bears fruit for visitors to pick and enjoy. The owners harvest olives that grow on two trees and have them milled into oil, which also is available for houseguests. That's a special treat because the local olive oil is among the best in the world and shows up in numerous Provencal recipes.

The house interior is a treasure trove of implements and reminders of its history and that of Pernes-les-Fontaines. An antique farmer's hat hanging from the ceiling harkens back to the time when the land produced crops. Walls and furniture display figures of women in traditional dress. The dining-room ceiling and some interior stone walls date back to the original house.

The town that now surrounds the old home also gets its due. Among scenes depicted in renderings that serve as decorations are one of the original outdoor fountains, a typical street scene and an ancient bell tower that still looks over the setting. The result produces a time-travel experience into the past combined with the comforts of modern-day life.

During previous trips with Untours we were put up in apartments on a working farm, at a winery and overlooking the canals of Venice. Never a hotel. Living like the locals was exactly what we did.

WHEN YOU GO

Untours travels to 13 European countries and also offers canal, river and small-ship sea cruises: www.untours.com or 888-868-6871.

For more information about Provence: www.provence-alpes-cotedazur.com/en.

 Staying in a French farmhouse in Provence provides the opportunity for quiet moments while living like a local. Photo courtesy of Victor Block.
Staying in a French farmhouse in Provence provides the opportunity for quiet moments while living like a local. Photo courtesy of Victor Block.

(SETIMAGE2) tad020622bdAP.jpg (END IMAGE2) (SET CAPTION2) Estelle Alvaraz, who rents her farmhouse in Provence, France, to visitors, shows off family treasures. Photo courtesy of Victor Block. (END CAPTION2)

 A medieval building in Provence, France, captures the character of Pernes-les-Fontaines. Photo courtesy of Victor Block.
A medieval building in Provence, France, captures the character of Pernes-les-Fontaines. Photo courtesy of Victor Block.

Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

Staying in a French farmhouse in Provence provides the opportunity for quiet moments while living like a local. Photo courtesy of Victor Block.

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