Visit the Homes of Wharton and Melville in the Berkshire Mountains

By Travel Writers

February 22, 2020 7 min read

By Steve Bergsman

In 1905, Edith Wharton published what is generally considered her first great novel, "The House of Mirth." It was written at her residence in Lenox, Massachusetts, a beautiful chateau-influenced home called The Mount, which she designed and which showcased her architectural and garden theories. After all, her first best-selling book was "The Decoration of Houses," which was published in 1897.

The Mount, located in the Berkshire Mountains and open to the public, proved to be antithetical to all she wrote about and her actual life in general. The home strived for openness, airiness, balance and orderliness. "The House of Mirth," the book that put Wharton on the map as one of America's great writers, was anything but mirthful. Anna Quindlen, writing about the book, noted that the book ends "at least metaphorically, with the sound of a heart breaking. This sadness, unalloyed."

Herman Melville published his most famous book, "Moby Dick," in 1851, while also living in the Berkshires. His home was considerably smaller than Wharton's, but he was equally location-enamored and wrote about it considerably in anecdotes and stories. Of his porch, which faced Mount Greylock, Melville scribbled, "Now, for a house, so situated in such a country, to have not piazza for the convenience of those who might desire to feast upon the view ... "

His home, which he called Arrowhead because of the many Native American arrowheads found on his property, is located in the township of Pittsfield and open to the public.

As with Wharton, the beauty of his home seems ironic in light of the tragic theme of his famous book about a man so consumed with mission that it overwhelms all else and results in a dramatic demise.

In the end the homes proved transitory in different ways for the two authors. For Wharton "The House of Mirth" was the start of a literary career so successful (she was the first woman writer to win a Pulitzer Prize) that in 1906 her annual income was over $700,000 in today's dollars. However, that was not enough to save a failing marriage. She left in 1911, moved to France and obtained a divorce. In contrast, Melville was happily married, but his writings failed to bring in significant income and the family moved away after 13 years. He sold the property to his brother in 1863. In his lifetime "Moby Dick" earned him a paltry $1,200.

Both properties have extensive grounds for hiking or just strolling, and both homes spent considerable years in private ownership before interested patrons saved and restored them. Of the two, the grandest is surely The Mount, which, as you gather for your tour in the carriage circle, looks as inviting today as it was more than100 years ago. Our tour guide still seemed thrilled at the opportunity to deliver Wharton information to visitors.

It's the intellectual placement of Wharton's life within these walls that makes this tour so interesting. The home fascinates architecturally, but due to years between Wharton's life here and restoration, little remains of actual Wharton furnishings and decorations with one exception — the library.

Wharton was an avid reader and collector of books, and when she relocated to Europe the books went with her. After her death, the collection was broken up and sold. Now more than half of those tomes have been reacquired and reassembled in this library. It's impressive. The other rooms to note are the boudoir-bedroom suites. Wharton often wrote in bed, tossing the finished pages to the floor. Her maid would gather up the papers and bring them to the secretary.

Some tours are dedicated solely to the gardens, which were heavily influenced by formal British designs. My favorite moment was to walk the allee of linden trees. During my visit sculptures dotted the grounds. After Wharton left The Mound she never returned.

At Arrowhead the grounds are more informal but equally interesting. The huge trees at the side of the house were planted by Melville, and his former pasture is now meadow, which when my wife and I visited was ablaze in flowers ornamented by thousands of butterflies.

As an1800s farm the surprise is how grandly maintained it was since Melville lived there. Inside, the rooms are surprisingly spacious, and unlike the Wharton house there are considerable pieces of furniture and miscellany that belonged to the author. The least-changed room is the master bedroom.

For true "Moby Dick" aficionados the Pittsfield Athenaeum (library) boasts a Melville room with an important collection of items from his life, including the table where he wrote his books while at Arrowhead.

Arrowhead remained in the Melville family for three generations, and Herman often returned. Perhaps he muttered "Call me Ishmael" as he crossed the threshold.

WHEN YOU GO

The Mount is open May through October, just weekends November through February: www.edithwharton.org.

Arrowhead is open year-round with seven tours daily, the first at 10 a.m. and the last at 4 p.m.: www.mobydick.org.

 Writer Edith Wharton's home, The Mount, in Lenox, Massachusetts, is now open to visitors. Photo courtesy of Steve Bergsman.
Writer Edith Wharton's home, The Mount, in Lenox, Massachusetts, is now open to visitors. Photo courtesy of Steve Bergsman.
 Arrowhead in Pittsfield, Massachusetts, was the home of writer Herman Melville and can be visited today. Photo courtesy of Steve Bergsman.
Arrowhead in Pittsfield, Massachusetts, was the home of writer Herman Melville and can be visited today. Photo courtesy of Steve Bergsman.
 A visitor stops by the Melville Room at the Pittsfield, Massachusetts, Athenaeum. Photo courtesy of Steve Bergsman.
A visitor stops by the Melville Room at the Pittsfield, Massachusetts, Athenaeum. Photo courtesy of Steve Bergsman.

Steve Bergsman is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

Arrowhead in Pittsfield, Massachusetts, was the home of writer Herman Melville and can be visited today. Photo courtesy of Steve Bergsman.

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