By Jim Farber
Because of its location at the intersection of so many highways as well as the railroad, Lafayette, on the shores of the Vermilion River in southern Louisiana, is known as "The Hub City." It's the ideal place for adventurous day trips or an overnight stay at some unique and historic destinations.
The best time to visit Lafayette is in the mild months of spring when gardens are in bloom or in the fall when the leaves are turning. Winter can be bone-chillingly cold while the heat and humidity of summer can be unbearable.
Adventure No. 1: Red Hot Chili Peppers
The slim bottles with the diamond-shaped red, white and green label proclaiming "Tabasco" are as common as salt and pepper shakers. Read further and the label says "McIlhenny Co." The McIlhenny family has produced the most famous hot sauce in the world for 150 years. Then read the fine print, which says, "Avery Island, Louisiana," just 30 miles from Lafayette.
One reason to visit Avery Island is to take the enjoyable and informative self-guided tour of the factory. Another is to explore the gift shop, cafe and tasting room where you can sample the complete line of Tabasco products, including some recipes (most notably the 150th Anniversary Reserve) that can only be purchased there or online.
The tour begins with a gallery devoted to the family history. Then, following the signs, you'll learn about the growing and preparation of the red-hot peppers. You'll smell the aromas that waft up from the stirring vats and visit the mash warehouse where endless rows of barrels (topped with a crust of salt) are left to peacefully age.
A third reason to visit Avery Island is the beautiful Jungle Gardens — 170 acres of semitropical gardens, lakes and waterways that stretch along Bayou Petite Anse. In springtime blooming azaleas, camellias and colorful bamboo abound. You're also likely to see alligators, deer and thousands of snowy egrets.
Adventure No. 2: Sleepy Time Down South
The picturesque countryside surrounding Lafayette, with its languid lakes, ancient oaks and wisps of Spanish moss, inspired the poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow to write his epic poem, "Evangeline, A Tale of Arcadie," in 1847. In 1819, Washington Irving wrote a story about a man who falls asleep under a tree in the Appalachian Mountains and wakes up 20 years later, "Rip Van Winkle." The man who connected the romance of Evangeline with that famous 20-year snooze was the American actor Joseph Jefferson.
Jefferson (1829-1905) trod the boards at the same time as Edmond and John Wilkes Booth. But his star turn was his performance as Rip Van Winkle, a role he reprised more than 4,500 times. In 1870, as a hunting getaway, he built a stunning mansion on top of the promontory that became known as Jefferson Island. Today it's better known as the Rip Van Winkle Gardens. And it's just a few miles down the road from Avery Island.
The gardens are extensive and beautifully adorned with strutting peacocks and ancient oaks, with paths leading up to the Jefferson House (which is on the National Register of Historic Places) and is a museum that can be toured.
Be sure to stop in at the cafe, with its glassed-in porch that looks out on Lake Peigneur. The kitchen is famous for regional specialties such as the Seafood Cream Bisque (homemade with Louisiana crawfish, lump crabmeat and large Gulf shrimp) and Eggplant Michelle (eggplant casserole with shrimp, crab, oysters and mushrooms). Leave room for a piece of Bourbon Pecan Pie.
Adventure No. 3: Living in the Past
Lafayette lies at the heart of Cajun Country, that part of Louisiana that was settled by French Catholics who were expelled by the British from Canada in the mid-to-late 18th century. There is no better way to understand what their lives were like than to visit the Vermilionville Historic Village in Lafayette.
This living-history museum and folk-life park, which opened in 1990, was created to preserve and represent the culture and architecture of the Acadians, Creoles and Native Americans who lived in region from 1765 to 1890. The village is situated on a 23-acre site along the tree-covered banks of Bayou Vermilion. Strolling the property with its array of superbly preserved historic structures you may encounter a blacksmith hard at work at his forge, a weaver working at her loom or a fiddler who is more than happy to play you a traditional Acadian folk song. There is also a concert stage, a restaurant and a dance hall.
Adventure No. 4: A Boutique B&B Way Off the Beaten Path
The American philosopher Alan Watts was fond of saying nothing special will happen if you never get lost. That's pretty much how I came upon Maison Madeleine. I was wandering down a dirt road in winter on the shore of Lake Martin when I saw a sign that said "Bed and Breakfast" with an arrow. It was incredibly cold and I was hoping someone was home. Was I ever surprised by what I found!
Located not far from the lake and the 9,300-acre Cypress Island Preserve, Maison Madeleine was established as a bed and breakfast in 2005 by its gracious owners, Madeleine Cenac and her husband, Walt Adams, who did indeed invite me in out of the cold.
The main structure is a French Creole cottage (circa 1840), which Madeleine told me was moved to its current location in 1997. Painstakingly restored and authentically furnished to its original grandeur, it now serves as the centerpiece of their operation. The bedrooms are cozy and intimate, the dining room is charming with its vaulted beamed ceiling and large stone fireplace.
One of the special offerings at Maison Madeleine is the "Secret Suppers."
"During our seasonal Secret Supper Series," Madeleine explained, "we bring in James Beard award-nominated chefs and Grammy-nominated musicians to create a night of great food and music under the starry Louisiana sky. Our guests can enjoy a curated menu of sights, tastes and music that reflect our Louisiana roots."
Because of its location, Maison Madeleine is also known as a birder's paradise. Visitors can witness the annual migration of roseate spoonbills, egrets and herons that nest and breed (February through June) in the primordial swamp.
WHEN YOU GO
Adventure No. 1: www.tabasco.com/visit-avery-island
Adventure No. 2: www.ripvanwinklegardens.com/explore/jefferson-island-history
Adventure No. 3: www.vermilionville.org/vermilionville/index-old.html
Adventure No. 4: www.maisonmadeleine.com
Jim Farber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
The home of 19th-century actor Joseph Jefferson near Avery Island, Louisiana, is open to visitors. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.
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