By Jim Farber

Think of Mardi Gras and what comes to mind? Probably the Big Easy — New Orleans — with its raucous crowds, partying like there's no tomorrow on Bourbon Street, fighting over tossed beads and swilling down towering cups of Hurricanes.

There is, however, an alternative. Instead of fighting the crowds (and the prices) for a room in the French Quarter, head for Lafayette in southern Louisiana. You'll have just as much fun and revelry watching parades with lavish floats and catching so many beads you won't be able to carry them all.

Then, if you want to really experience something completely different, head 30 miles southwest to the farming town of Eunice, where you can take part in Mardi Gras the Cajun way — on horseback. And while you're in the neighborhood be sure to enjoy the traditional barn dance and pork fest known as the Lundi Gras Boucherie.

Lafayette was originally named Vermilionville because the town grew up on the banks of the Vermilion River. The name was changed in 1884 to honor the French general who played a key role in the American Revolution. The town is surrounded by flat plains ideal for farming, lazily flowing rivers, picturesque lakes and marshy bayous. It's also a center for the raising of crawfish, which local restaurants dispense by the bucketload.

At Mardi Gras time, Lafayette turns into one big festival with parades of every size taking place, from homespun neighborhood gatherings such as the Krewe de Canailles Walking Parade (and dance) to the grand floats of the night-time Krewe of Bonaparte Parade and climaxing with the Queen Evangeline Parade, a daytime extravaganza that winds its way for seven miles through the town as thousands of spectators line the streets hoping to catch their share of carnival booty.

Lafayette is situated at the heart of Louisiana Cajun country. Also known as Acadians, these early French Catholic settlers were driven out of Canada by the British as part of "The Great Expulsion" from 1755 to 1764. They brought with them traditions and celebrations that date back to the Middle Ages. And those traditions are what makes Mardi Gras in Cajun Country special.

The main event is the Euncie Courir de Mardi Gras (or "The Fat Tuesday Run"). The signature feature of the event is the colorful (usually homemade) patchwork costumes with elaborate masks that hark back to medieval France.

The form it takes is based on ancient begging rituals as riders on horseback ride from house to house soliciting donations of food, which at the end of the day provides fixings for an enormous community-size gumbo. By far the most notorious aspect of the celebration is the chicken chase. At various spots along the parade route, the grand marshal releases a chicken. Now on foot, gaily clad mummers dash helter-skelter in an attempt to catch it with their hands. Add a more-than-ample amount of early morning alcohol (mostly beer) to the mix and... You get the picture. Spectators can either ride on horseback or follow in colorfully decorated carts towed by tractors. The event draws up to 2,000 participants, and registration begins at 6 o'clock that morning.

Another winter gathering event that has even more ancient roots is the boucherie. Instead of the biblical "fatted calf," the gathering begins early in the morning with the slaughtering of a hog. Then the cooking begins. By the time it ends, every part of that sacrificial pig has been turned into a dish — from deep-fried skin cracklin's to backbone stew, links of sausages, slabs of roast pork and boiled head cheese — all of which can be observed in the making and then devoured.

The event I attended was the Lundi Gras Boucherie in Lakeview Park on Veterans Memorial Highway in Eunice. People gathered from all over the region, parking their RVs and cars in a field and then making their way into the towering old wooden barn where the feast was to be held.

There was food and drink aplenty, seating at long tables and live music from a band playing Hank Williams numbers. Couples of all ages were swinging their partners on the dance floor, and then it was time to eat. It was unlike anything a city boy like me had ever been part of. And I loved it.

WHEN YOU GO

For general information: www.lafatettetravel.com/discover-lafayette

Mardi Gras parades: In Lafayette, www.krewedecanailles.com; in Eunice, www.eunice-la.com

The Lundi Gras Boucherie: www.lvpark.com

Riding on horseback is a big part of celebrating Mardi Gras in Louisiana's Cajun Country. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.

Revelers reach for beads at the Mardi Gras parade in Lafayette, Louisiana. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.

A traditional part of celebrating Mardi Gras in Louisiana's Cajun Country is butchering a hog in the morning and feasting on it that evening. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.

Jim Farber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

Riding on horseback is a big part of celebrating Mardi Gras in Louisiana's Cajun Country. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.