By Annie Coburn
Easter Island is considered the most isolated inhabited place on earth, but it still draws a lot of visitors each year. Who wouldn't want to walk among the majestic Moai, those long-nosed stone statues that guard this diminutive island? Who built them? Why build them? How were they moved? Did space aliens leave them on the island? So many unanswered questions. That's part of the magic of Rapa Nui, the native name for the island.
When Polynesians landed on the island around A.D. 1000, vegetation and trees flourished. But humans have a way of changing the landscape. Vegetation before and after human arrival is key to understanding the rise and fall of the native population.
From their first step onto Anakena, the only beach on Rapa Nui, the new residents ravaged the vegetation, cutting down trees to use as rollers to move the 14-ton Moai. Conservation was not part of the culture, and gradually the island became a wasteland, unable to support crops. Water was, and still is, a major problem for the island — truly a dichotomy since water is present within every 360-degree view.
Upon their arrival, the people began carving statues from the volcanic tuff (volcanic ash plus lava) from Rano Raraku, an inactive volcano located on the northern corner of the island. The most plausible reason for the creation of the Moai is as protectors and a demonstration of strength. No one knows for sure. In the beginning these creatures had human features such as rounded heads and complete torsos, but slowly they took on more stylized features: long noses, no legs and squatty bodies.
A tribal chief would commission a crafts team to prepare a Moai, which probably took a year to complete. Then the finished Moai had to be moved to the tribe's location. Speculation is that timbers were used as a sled to roll the Moai to their new home. So the downfall began. This lush island became a barren rock. Lack of food sparked civil war among the tribes. From petroglyphs on cave walls researchers surmise cannibalism among the tribes. Since power and energy resided in the Moai, warring tribes would topple another tribe's Moai to make them weak, so that throughout the island lay prone Moai .
Civil war was not the only problem. In 1862 Peruvian slave pirates raided the island, capturing strong young men and shipping them back to Peru to work in the guano deposits. Suddenly the population was rift of its youth, thus devastating the future of the island.
Logically, the remoteness of Easter Island would preclude outside visitation, but that was not the case. The last half of the 19th century was a busy time for the island. French missionaries arrived to convert the existing pagan population to Christianity, cleverly incorporating island belief with Christian doctrine to make for an easy transition.
Today Chile governs Easter Island, but the two cultures are 180 degrees apart, which causes animosity and friction. A supply ship periodically sails from Chile to bring foodstuffs to the island. The Rapa Nui people embrace the cache, but they still desire independence from Chile's regulations.
Easter Island, an isolated dot in the Pacific Ocean, is 2,340 miles northwest of Santiago, Chile. Whether you begin the trip from Fuji, Chile or the United States, it's quite a journey. Fulfilling this trip requires some serious planning and cash.
LAN and American Airlines (companion airlines) fly into Easter Island's Mataveri International. LAN leaves Santiago early in the morning and makes a turn-around flight back to Santiago in the afternoon.
The good news is that LAN offers discounts on flights between March and May. February is summer in the Southern Hemisphere and festival time on Easter Island. If you love crowds and don't mind higher prices, this is your best time. Beginning in March, the weather is mild and prices and crowds are low.
There is no Hilton or Holiday Inn, but there are charming hostels in the area. Hare Noi is the most expensive hotel on the island, costing in excess of $300 per night. Cabana Mataveri, costing less than $100 per night and a 15-minute walk from downtown, is clean and offers free WiFi, a friendly staff and complimentary breakfast. Take a deep breath and give a hostel a try.
As to eating, you can't go wrong. The eating establishments are locally owned, and that's a good thing. Two favorites are Te Moana and Club Sandwich. If you eat at Club Sandwich, split a sandwich with a friend. They are huge and too much food for one person. The seafood is fresh and good.
Depending on your budget your transportation might consist of a rental car, bicycle, ATV, walk or taxi. Taxis charge a flat rate of $2,000 Chilean pesos per ride anywhere on the island, but don't worry: That's $3 in U.S. money. The best place to rent your transportation of choice is Oceanic, located on the main street. This is such a small island that everything is easy to find, which is part of what makes Easter Island so lovable.
Souvenir shopping, from cheap to expensive, is everywhere. Plan a day for browsing in the shops.
For evening entertainment, experience Varua Ora. This is a traditional dance show. The performers are enthusiastic and never stop trying to please the audience.
Stores and restaurants take Chilean pesos (660 CLP to $1). Only a few merchants will accept U.S. dollars, and credit cards are rarely accepted. There are two ATM machines on the island, but exchanging your money at the airport in Santiago will make life easier.
Because Easter Island is isolated and difficult to access, the best trip length is 10 days. Five days is long enough to experience the 800-plus Moai that populate the island. After that you'll have five days to enjoy other activities: the beach, caves, volcanoes and incredible beauty of this volcanic rock that sits in the middle of nowhere in the Pacific Ocean.
Annie Coburn is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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