Dear James: We are building a guest house using wood stud walls. We plan to build the walls on the ground and raise them. What is the easiest method to do this and have nice, flat walls? — Laurie S.

Dear Laurie: This simple building method has been used for centuries. You will need a group of friends to help raise each completed framed wall. Spend a bit extra, and start with good-quality lumber. Having fewer bowed studs certainly makes the job much easier.

The first step is to place the lumber indoors, or at least under a cover to protect it from rain. Give it several days to dry, and then sort it according to the straightness of each piece of lumber. You can still use the bowed pieces, but you will have to make adjustments for them.

The primary problem bowed wall studs create occurs when you are trying to attach the drywall. A high point on a stud can cause a bulge that is apparent. A low point leaves a long, unsupported span, which can allow a drywall seam to open over time. A low point is easier to correct than a high point.

Once a section of the framing is completed, use a straightedge or stretch a string to find high and low points. The simplest way to correct a low point is to add shim stock on the side where the drywall will be attached. Space them a foot or two apart. This should provide enough support for the drywall.

Another method is to cut a notch, slightly deeper than the thickness of a 2-by-4-inch stud, in the backside of the bowed stud. Cut a short piece of stud long enough to fit between two adjacent studs.

Screw this piece horizontally in the notch. Nail each end into the adjacent studs such that the front surface of the bowed stud is pushed out level with the others. The reverse procedure can be used with a stud that is bowed out.

A 2-by-4-inch studded wall on 16-inch centers can be quite heavy and difficult to raise into position without a large crew or a crane. If it is not raised in a reasonably uniform method, it can be twisted, and the lumber can actually be damaged and weakened.

The most difficult part is when starting to tilt the wall up from the floor. Once it is above 45 degrees, it is easier to lift. Take several 2-by-4-inch beams, and nail them to the subflooring. Nail small support plates to it every 18 inches or so. Starting at one end, lift the wall and let the header rest on a plate. Work your way along the wall for each step until it is high enough to raise.

Once the wall is up, you may want to adjust its position. One method is to build a couple of hinged support beams. These are simply made from 2-by-4-inch studs (scrap ones are too bowed to use). A V-notch is cut into the end of one, and it is attached near the end of another lever with a hinge.

Support the bottom end of the lever piece with a block nailed to the subflooring. Place the V-notch against the wall header. By pushing on the lever, the wall will easily move to get it perfectly vertical.

Send your questions to Here's How, 6906 Royalgreen Dr., Cincinnati, OH 45244, or visit www.dulley.com. To find out more about James Dulley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

Photo credit: MarkMartins at Pixabay