Dear James: Last winter, I forgot to turn off the water to an outdoor faucet, and the pipe split. How do I install one of the freeze-safe ones, and do they work? — Kerri J.

Dear Kerri: I think everyone has forgotten to shut off the water to an outdoor faucet (technically called a sillcock) at some point. The pipe does not always split, but just once can be enough. You do not know the pipe is split until it thaws during the day while you may be away at work. The leak can cause a lot of damage.

The pipe splits and leaks because water expands when it freezes. The colder it gets, the more it expands. If there is a weak spot in the pipe, it will split there. If the pipe has been stressed in that spot over several winters of freezing, it may finally let go, even at just barely freezing temperatures.

You have two options to eliminate the possibility of freezing the faucet and pipe. Installing a freeze-free sillcock is effective and does not require you to do anything at the beginning of winter. If you do need some water quickly outdoors on a warmer winter day, you just turn on the faucet as usual.

The other option is to install an indoor valve and drain cap by each sillcock. At the beginning of winter, you must turn off the valve, remove the drain plug and drain the water from the faucet side. This method is very effective, but it does not allow you to use the outdoor faucet quickly.

All of the freeze-free sillcocks are made in a similar manner. There is a long pipe onto which the faucet is attached. The faucet handle is attached to a long rod inside the pipe. The actual valve is on the end of the long rod, so there is no standing water in the uninsulated outdoor portion of the pipe when no water is flowing.

The length of freeze-free sillcocks typically ranges from about 8 to 14 inches, with 10 or 12 inches being the most common. The proper length to select depends upon the thickness of the wall and the indoor clearance behind it. Since you are installing the sillcock in a cabin that is used only on weekends, select an inexpensive one. You will likely not use it enough to wear it out.

All freeze-free sillcocks have a male-threaded end. Copper-threaded female adapters are available to fit the sillcock. The adapter is soldered on to the one-half-inch copper plumbing pipe, and the sillcock end is screwed into it. This makes replacing the sillcock a simple task, but getting the threads to seal can be a bit tricky. Use Teflon tape or plumber's dope on the threads.

The inside diameter of the sillcock pipe is made of copper and sized to fit perfectly over the outside of standard copper plumbing. The sillcock can be soldered directly to the plumbing. This installation is actually the best, and most professional plumbers use it. A good solder joint is very strong and will not leak.

Here are a few installation tips which may help: If you solder the sillcock directly to the plumbing, first remove the internal rubber seals so the heat does not damage them. Make sure there is no water dripping from the pipe. This cools it, and you will never get the solder to melt. Use flux on the pipe ends.

Send your questions to Here's How, 6906 Royalgreen Dr., Cincinnati, OH 45244, or visit www.dulley.com. To find out more about James Dulley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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