One of this country's worst misunderstandings about wine is that red wine should be served at room temperature. I have always believed that when red wine is served at 70 degrees Fahrenheit or more, it is at its worst.

The misunderstanding comes from a poor translation of the French term referring to a room as a "chambre," which is a room in an old, drafty French residence or castle, where there is no central heating. Such facilities were always very cool.

In the United States, where most rooms are about 68 to 72 degrees, red wine is a temperature that is far too high to appreciate. I typically suggest that it be served at what I call cellar temperature, which is closer to 62 to 65.

Similarly, serving all white wines ice cold is also a faux pas. A quality chardonnay or sauvignon blanc served at 40 degrees is usually so cold that no one could pick up any of the subtle nuances that let tasters see the character of the wine.

When a wine is that cold, the only element of it that can be perceived is the fact that it is wet!

Unfortunately, far too many restaurants serve their white wines so unbelievably cold that it is likely that no one could tell the difference between a gewurztraminer and a chardonnay.

I believe that most white wine should be served at about the same temperature as reds, 62 to 65.

The only variations here are with especially aromatic white wines like riesling, which may be chilled to about 55 degrees, and high-quality champagnes that are usually best at about 50 degrees.

There is one classic exception to the "cool red" rule, and that is with Beaujolais, the light red wine from the French district of that name that may be chilled a bit lower. Fine wine lovers often disparage Beaujolais, but it is a fine alternative red wine.

At its most basic, it is called either Beaujolais or its companion, Beaujolais-Villages. Both wines can be tasty, lighter reds that are best served slightly chilled, at about 55 to 60 degrees.

On hot patios, either wine slightly chilled can be a cool alternative for those who prefer a red wine to a white.

One more suggestion about Beaujolais: drink them no older than four years from the vintage date. Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages do not improve with time in the bottle.

Wine of the Week: 2022 or 2023 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages ($16) — A lighter, elegant version of a simple red wine that emulates one of the cafe wines of the French countryside. Often discounted.

Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County, California, where he publishes "Vintage Experiences," a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at winenut@gmail.com. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate webpage at www.creators.com.

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